Help Identifying This Marin Frame
- Thread starter npn
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marc two tone
Retrobike Rider
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Re:
Aye 1996.
Aye 1996.
marc two tone
Retrobike Rider
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Aluminium alloy. Generally good and strong. Not many of these has cracking problems. Such is aluminium, they can feel a bit stiff to ride, but comfort can be reaped back with front suspension.
Also, the frame can be built up with common components. Such as 68 mm bottom brackets, 1.1/8" forks......etc...
You won't have to spend a million bucks either. Shimano LX, STX etc. will suffice.
Aluminium alloy. Generally good and strong. Not many of these has cracking problems. Such is aluminium, they can feel a bit stiff to ride, but comfort can be reaped back with front suspension.
Also, the frame can be built up with common components. Such as 68 mm bottom brackets, 1.1/8" forks......etc...
You won't have to spend a million bucks either. Shimano LX, STX etc. will suffice.
Re:
I've purchased it and waiting for it in the mail.
Note, the letters are actually blue, on the lighter side, and not as purple as they appear on the pictures. I'll see if I can confirm the year by looking at the frame numbers. I know there's a long thread here for that.
And yeah, STX would be my choice for components.
I've purchased it and waiting for it in the mail.
Note, the letters are actually blue, on the lighter side, and not as purple as they appear on the pictures. I'll see if I can confirm the year by looking at the frame numbers. I know there's a long thread here for that.
And yeah, STX would be my choice for components.
The first challenge with this frame: stuck bottom bracket. The cup was removed by the previous owner and I guess that's where they gave up.
I recall that BBs on older Marins have the opposite thread/installation... so before I try anything crazy, which way should I turn to get it loose and removed?
This is the left side of the frame:
And this is the right with the cup gone:
I recall that BBs on older Marins have the opposite thread/installation... so before I try anything crazy, which way should I turn to get it loose and removed?
This is the left side of the frame:
And this is the right with the cup gone:
JonTom
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Remove the non-driveside first - anti-clockwise.
Then (you'd usually) do the driveside - clockwise.
If the BB is stuck try boiling the kettle and slowly pouring it over the BB shell. Aluminium expands faster than steel and I've removed many stuck parts using this method. You might need to repeat this 2-3 times depending on how stuck it is. And you can have a lovely cuppa when you're done.
If that fails try using something over the wrench to increase the length of the handle, slip something like an old fork steerer tube over it.
Remember to grease the threads when you install the new BB.
Remove the non-driveside first - anti-clockwise.
Then (you'd usually) do the driveside - clockwise.
If the BB is stuck try boiling the kettle and slowly pouring it over the BB shell. Aluminium expands faster than steel and I've removed many stuck parts using this method. You might need to repeat this 2-3 times depending on how stuck it is. And you can have a lovely cuppa when you're done.
If that fails try using something over the wrench to increase the length of the handle, slip something like an old fork steerer tube over it.
Remember to grease the threads when you install the new BB.
Re:
Left leg side anto-clockwise to undo.
Right leg side clockwise to undo.
Thats weird as the rh cup is usually pressed on to the bb e.g shimano so is very had to remove wheread lh cup slides over the bb,
Fit the removal socket then fit washer and bolt to the spindle to hold the socket in place.
Usually if rh cup is in place, you would need to undo the bolt as the cup comes away but bb is in place (remeber i said the cup slides on),
In your case since the rh cup is out you wont need to do that.
Note the spindle should drop out with a gentle tap and you coukd use a hacksaw to carefully the cup if undoing it fails.
Left leg side anto-clockwise to undo.
Right leg side clockwise to undo.
Thats weird as the rh cup is usually pressed on to the bb e.g shimano so is very had to remove wheread lh cup slides over the bb,
Fit the removal socket then fit washer and bolt to the spindle to hold the socket in place.
Usually if rh cup is in place, you would need to undo the bolt as the cup comes away but bb is in place (remeber i said the cup slides on),
In your case since the rh cup is out you wont need to do that.
Note the spindle should drop out with a gentle tap and you coukd use a hacksaw to carefully the cup if undoing it fails.
marc two tone
Retrobike Rider
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It can be deceptive as, marin seemed to pop them in right to left on alu models, but the principal is the same.
Some of the work has been done but prepare for a fight as the BB shell will have powdery silt helping the threads hold tight.
However you choose to do battle...turn like this....
It can be deceptive as, marin seemed to pop them in right to left on alu models, but the principal is the same.
Some of the work has been done but prepare for a fight as the BB shell will have powdery silt helping the threads hold tight.
However you choose to do battle...turn like this....
