Front derailleur frustrations

For the Middleburn RS7 to sit equally spaced between DS and NDS, it ideally needs the symmetric axle.

A 110mm is 3mm longer on the NDS only compared to a 107mm; not 1.5mm each side. An old trick for a 110mm is with a 1.5mm / 2mm spacer under the DS cup. Since the shell width is extended, the NDS will need to be wound in more. The shitty plastic NDS cups can not be used, but the metal ones can.

[ all my references refer to Shimano square taper just for clarity, many people are not that bothered about this symmetry difference in practice]

EDIT: If you have tried with 113mm already, check crank arm clearance and ring clearance and make a judgement call to use a 107mm (3mm less each side).
 
I pull out the derailleur by hand, then attach the cable. This kinda pretensions it. Otherwise it will start off too slack and you will/may run out of leeway on the barrel adjusters.
 
Funny you should comment just then -- having realised that I needed a shorter bottom bracket, I ordered one which arrived today. And now the problem is that the original BB is stuck fast in the shell. I have the correct tool and have applied penetrating oil etc., but I can't shift either cup (and I am indeed pushing the drive side clockwise.)

The problem is not so much the tool as securing the frame adequately. That and it's just me doing the work -- no helping hands to steady things. And no workshop / workbench with vice, either.

How do you keep the frame immobile while removing a stuck BB?
 
Well truth be told I've never really had stuck BB cups.
I don't have a workstand. I'd rather buy components instead.😂

When did you install the original BB?
 
I didn't install it -- I think it's the original 1999 BB as the crankset was original. And yes, removed the cranks, wheels, saddle etc.
 
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