De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag Parts
- Thread starter kettlo
- Start date
D
Deleted member 24574
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
Excellent thread thanks ... I have some brake levers that may follow this route ...
Excellent thread thanks ... I have some brake levers that may follow this route ...
Ian Raleigh
rBotM Winner
- Feedback
- View
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
I'd suggest using Diamond files for removing any bad scuffed sections of alloy!
Files can be used over and over again unlike you have to buy the rough grade paper.
Diamond files are cheaper than you think!!
A few layers of high quality clear acrylic lacquer will protect the finish.
Good work on the levers matey.
I'd suggest using Diamond files for removing any bad scuffed sections of alloy!
Files can be used over and over again unlike you have to buy the rough grade paper.
Diamond files are cheaper than you think!!
A few layers of high quality clear acrylic lacquer will protect the finish.
Good work on the levers matey.
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
Re-anodising - i was sent this info from an RB member who might perhaps post further info -
Removing anodising is really easy. You need only about 10-15% lye solution. Here in Finland you can buy suitable lye solution from the grocery. This solution is normally used to clear slow running sinks. Then put the part which you want to strip to solution and it helps little bit if you brush item little bit. There forms some hydrogen gas so this is best to do in well ventilated area. Lye is also very caustic so good rubber gloves are needed. Stripping doesn't take long time, if you leave aluminium part in the lye for too long time it will will dissolve totally in it. So keep the part only for example in 20 seconds or so at first and take it out and wash in fresh water. It is quite easy to see when anodisation is stripped off. When anodisation is stripped it is very much easier to sand scratches off and polish item.
Anodising is not very complicated process but it needs some practising. You need about 25% sulphuric acid (battery acid for example) and adjustable power supply. I have radio controlled model airplanes and I have a good battery charger which I can use as a adjustable power supply. The part to be anodised have to be polished and free of any greases. At first part will put to the 10% or so lye solution for the very short time. Positive wire of the power source is connected to the part to be anodised. Negative wire is connected to aluminum plate (cathode) whose surface area is about same than the part to be anodised. Then the aluminum plate and the part is put to the 25% container where is 25% sulph,uric acid and they must not to be in contact each other. The anodising current depends on the surface are of the part to be anodised. It should be about 10-20 mA per every 1cm2 surface area. Anodising time is about 30-45min but there are many parameters like temperature, current etc. which affects to the process. One thing is also important. Wires going to the part which will be anodised and to the cathode must be aluminium or titanium.
After anodising is done, parts have to be boiled in hot water about 20min or so. This closes the pores in anodised surface. Before boiling it is possible to dye part with colors. I haven't tried coloring yet but it should be easy with dylon cloth dying colors.
I would be interested if anyone tries this.
Richard
Re-anodising - i was sent this info from an RB member who might perhaps post further info -
Removing anodising is really easy. You need only about 10-15% lye solution. Here in Finland you can buy suitable lye solution from the grocery. This solution is normally used to clear slow running sinks. Then put the part which you want to strip to solution and it helps little bit if you brush item little bit. There forms some hydrogen gas so this is best to do in well ventilated area. Lye is also very caustic so good rubber gloves are needed. Stripping doesn't take long time, if you leave aluminium part in the lye for too long time it will will dissolve totally in it. So keep the part only for example in 20 seconds or so at first and take it out and wash in fresh water. It is quite easy to see when anodisation is stripped off. When anodisation is stripped it is very much easier to sand scratches off and polish item.
Anodising is not very complicated process but it needs some practising. You need about 25% sulphuric acid (battery acid for example) and adjustable power supply. I have radio controlled model airplanes and I have a good battery charger which I can use as a adjustable power supply. The part to be anodised have to be polished and free of any greases. At first part will put to the 10% or so lye solution for the very short time. Positive wire of the power source is connected to the part to be anodised. Negative wire is connected to aluminum plate (cathode) whose surface area is about same than the part to be anodised. Then the aluminum plate and the part is put to the 25% container where is 25% sulph,uric acid and they must not to be in contact each other. The anodising current depends on the surface are of the part to be anodised. It should be about 10-20 mA per every 1cm2 surface area. Anodising time is about 30-45min but there are many parameters like temperature, current etc. which affects to the process. One thing is also important. Wires going to the part which will be anodised and to the cathode must be aluminium or titanium.
After anodising is done, parts have to be boiled in hot water about 20min or so. This closes the pores in anodised surface. Before boiling it is possible to dye part with colors. I haven't tried coloring yet but it should be easy with dylon cloth dying colors.
I would be interested if anyone tries this.
Richard
Old Ned
Old School Grand Master
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
Have a look here -
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
Might be some assistance
Have a look here -
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
Might be some assistance
Ian Raleigh
rBotM Winner
- Feedback
- View
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
The guy needs reminding! We asked him if he would do a full run-down of how to do it correctly.Midlife":wfwhhuos said:There was someone on here who anodised some of his Raleigh Record Sprint bits back to gold
I'd love to have a go at that
Robbied196
Senior Retro Guru
Re: De-Anodizing and Polishing and Refurbishment of Campag P
A brilliant guide, like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. It would be worth having a 'Restoration' section to collect all the useful guides like this one. Once they drop down the queue they seem to disappear into obscurity!
I found the spec sheet for Oven Pride and its mainly Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) if anyone was planning on stripping a lot of parts you can buy a kilo of Sodium Hydroxide pearls on Ebay for a £5, plus a bit of a hammering on the new postage rates!
A brilliant guide, like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. It would be worth having a 'Restoration' section to collect all the useful guides like this one. Once they drop down the queue they seem to disappear into obscurity!
I found the spec sheet for Oven Pride and its mainly Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) if anyone was planning on stripping a lot of parts you can buy a kilo of Sodium Hydroxide pearls on Ebay for a £5, plus a bit of a hammering on the new postage rates!
