And today I did......

Thank you teacher - I stand corrected.

The problem I had was despite having a wide selection of adapters I couldn't fit either 180s or 160s on the front or 160s on the rear without adding spacers. The problem was with both the frame and Surly forks. I wonder if they may be road BB5s?
 
With the BB5 and BB7 there are road and mtb versions. It is stamped somewhere on them, should just have MTB or RD.
I use the BB5 on my 1X1 and they are great, never had a problem. I use the BB7 on the Pugsley and have had a few small issues but nothing major. Both great brakes.
Today was a mixed bag for me, not much riding but got a bit done. I took the headset off the Jack Taylor, getting it ready for it's oxilic acid bath this week when the stuff arrives. I wanted it off anyway as it's not what is going back on it as it's a black XT job. It's in great condition besides the external pitting type marks on the top race otherwise it's great both inside and out and logos are still bright and clear, but it will be replaced with a stronglight silver. If anyones after an XT let me know as It will just be out in the spares box.
I also replaced both drop links on the Meriva which was fun as they were well corroded, but all done with no rattling so it is ready to drive south for the Rough Stuff audax next weekend.
I also, and this is my favourite thing done today, is finalised and paid for the new head for my Volkswagen van, so it will hopefully be back on the road soon. :)

Jamie
 
Hi Jamie, I'm interested to see how you get on with the oxalic acid. I was looking inti different rust strippers and think I'm going to give molasses a go.
 
I think, and that's not always a good thing, but I think the silver BB's are road.

The oxalic seems to be the go to acid for taking rust back on some of the old bike groups and certainly on the bmx groups if your frame is plated at all.
My plan is really borne out by wanting to preserve the original paint work for as long as I can as obviously it was painted by Jack Taylor as with all the box and lug lining he did by his own hand, flaws and all. So while it has got a lot of rust spots all over it, there is really only a couple of bits that I will touch up and they are the chainstay bridge, top of the seat tube and the larger spots around the edge of the BB. For the rest the plan is that the acid takes the surface rust away and stops any further reaction and once dry I will wax it and wax it and, you guessed it, wax it. A good canuba wax or such. James on here at No Quarter paints has there own high end bike wax compound so I may try that. Hopefully that will do the job and if I do it often it may protect it for a few years to come. The only problem with the oxalic is that while it wont affect the paint, if the tube is rusty under the paint then it will lift the paint off. I will test it on the rear rack first and try and work out the time for leaving it. Will most likely do it section by section rather than just chucking it in the bath :) To be honest, when I had it down today the sections or bits with the surface rust are really just bare metal as when I cleaned all the years of corrosive dust of it I then dried it and polished it and while that was a while ago now, because it's sat in the loft in the dry, none of it as gone rusty and could at a push get away without bathing and just waxing and touch up. . It was just a light surface rust anyway but it was all the spots that had pitted through the paint. And the paint that's solid shined up instantly. I seen a photo of it from years ago just before the guy put it in the shed and it was gleaming gloss red with no real marks at all. Such a shame.

Jamie
 
Re: Re:

RobMac":2kv2gj63 said:
Today I cycled up the coast line to Shell Bay and clocked up 20 miles in the process. BTW Genesis's own brand saddle is a f'kin instrument of torture, oooo my bloody arse.
And as for the head wind on the way back, FM I thought I was in Carnoustie :facepalm:
BTW Clubby I'm running the 650b+ tyres @ 12psi for grip & comfort ;)
 
Bullpup":coxl3ix4 said:
Thank you teacher - I stand corrected.

The problem I had was despite having a wide selection of adapters I couldn't fit either 180s or 160s on the front or 160s on the rear without adding spacers. The problem was with both the frame and Surly forks. I wonder if they may be road BB5s?

What bolts were you trying to use Bullpup?
BB5/7 mount using what avid call CPS spacers for 3D adjustment. These are concave/convex washers, much like you find on v-brakes. If you're just using bolts that would explain why you've had to add spacers.

http://www.sram.com.cn/sites/default/fi ... unting.pdf
 

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