Overbury's "The Riddler"

Thought I'd start a build thread based on the Overburys frame I recently bought off ebay.

To start a couple of pictures.





There were a few issues from the start but I was keen to work on something that needed more than just some nice parts throwing at it. All of these issues are currently being looked at by Argos.

I have searched the web trying to identify a model/year for the frame but have been unsuccessful. There are always differences and similarities between all the frames but few are identical.

This one is completely fillet brazed, has no chainstay bridge, wavy seat stays, front mounted seat collar, top routed cabling, and is V-brake specific. I also think the wheel base may be longer than a Pioneer but have not had a chance to measure yet.

The only component I could ID was an XT Shark fin, these were produced from around 87 to 97 best I can tell! V brakes came in around 96.

My best GUESS would be that it is a custom order or a 26" wheel tourer of some kind?? The seat stays are quite beefy despite no bridge between them. It will be interesting to weigh it at some point.

I did go into Overburys when I got it but had no joy, TBH it wasnt a nice experience and I wont rush back for more help!

When it returns from Argos I plan to strip the paint back to see if there is any evidence of old cant-stops or u-brakes. A lack of these would put it around the 96/97 mark I believe (assuming the shark fin was from new).

TBH I have not seen an Overburys of this generation so it's a bit of a mystery at the moment. I am just looking forward to mocking it up, choosing a spec (based on year), and most importantly. . . . . .how to paint it

Any information or ideas are gratefully received. Updates to follow.

Luke

Such a great bike. especially since some many mid 90's bike manufaturers went alloy, this is real treat.

It was not unheard of for even late 80's earlie 90's mtbs not to have a chain stay brindge so they could get shorter chainstays for climbing.

As for period paint i would go with a single metallic paint and some decals. I may have soem decals templates soem where if you want. Email me.

Great bike i cant wait to see it with some nice kit on it.

"keep it steel"

Cheers
Pete

Is there a braze on for a front mech roller guide? (to use a bottom pull front mech with top routed cables)

I wouldnt get too hung up on lack of canti cable stops, that could be a misnomer as there are many methods of running cantis with as few braze ons as possible.

Its a shame the original forks are not available, I dont think my 'spare' set steerer is long enough.

good luck with the build regardless.

luke, were argos not able to help you determine the type of tubing and grade of tubing that was used on the frame? i.e, 531..columbus, prestige...? may go someway to pinpointing the manufacture date, and even the manufacturer, if not overburys...?

and even though your experience of your visit to overburys wasnt pleasant, if it were me in your shoes, i would feel complelled to go back with the frame, and simply ask them to confirm, if they ever made there frames with "S" bend seat stays.....?????. you may find its sumthing a little more exotic...????

I am very very intrigued.....!!!!

Cheers Kev, I may do about the decals but I think Argos should be able to cover it. I also have a couple of ideas about paint



No braze on for that, I had thought about getting one as I had always fancied XC Pro kit and didnt think they did a top pull front mech. The seat tube is 27.2 though so M901 or M950 both do a tp 31.8 band.

As for the canti stops, good point, I hadn't considered that. Some sort of dog collar maybe?



TBH I didnt ask Argos about the tubing as I didnt think it was even possible! I will bring it up when I end up back there, see what they think. Anyone know what weight I should be looking at for a high spec tubing like columbus? I haven't weighed it yet.

When I went into the shop Andy Powell did confirm it was one of his, when I pushed him on the frame number hoping to get a bit more info he told me he did keep records somewhere but he knew he made it and that was enough. I will go back when it is painted up nice, hopefully that will help

Nice, look forward to the finished result.

These frame builder chappies are an elusive and sometimes difficult bunch from my experience - don't really understand that. I restore classic cars, had an email from some one who has bought a car that I restored fifteen years ago (1950's MGA) asking for the paint code and a few other questions. I emailed him back with all the details and more - he was delighted. That's how it should be, shouldn't it, only takes a few minutes of your time.

What was Argos's opinion of the tube marks you were concerned with?

They agreed that it had been in a front end shunt and that the steel had rippled under the impact. I had removed the paint so they could inspect the welds and they were happy that the welds were fine and strong. They reckoned the head tube was about a degree out so pulled it back into shape, no issues with the head tube shape/circumference itself thankfully.

Having removed a bit more paint around the rear brakes I can find no evidence of any canti-stop or pivots being moved. For now, I have to assume it was intended for v's but another trip to the shop will hopefully clear this up!. . . . at some point.

I am starting to think about spec and parts to look out for now. Pretty sure I am going to "mock up" the various parts before I send the frame away for any paint.

First dilema / decision is the forks. Unfortunately the frame had no forks when I got it. Probably linked to the frame damage!

I would love some original Overburys but the chances of finding some are slim. I have narrowed it down to 2 options.

1. RC30's. I was concerned that the straight profile may not agree with the frame so I offered up some rc35's I have to see.

I think they look good. The other thing I like about these is I could get some rough ones to be re-anodised and colour matched etc. This could keep costs down (or at least spread them over time!)

2. Ritchey Logic. Again I dont have any yet so put some Marin Rockstars on which are a similar shape and rake.



Not sure about these



Cockpit wise I am looking at Controltech stuff. I have a 1" stem en route and will look out for a matching 27.2 seat post. I like to match the stem and post when possible but need a quill. I think Ctech stems should suit the frame but will reserve judgement. A steel stem would be nice too but I couldn't think of one with a matching post???

Any thoughts on the forks guys? Maybe someone has a rough pair of rc30's with a 1" steerer they might sell?

i think the marin forks are more in keeping, but pace forks were a common upgrade especially the ridgid ones. I would paint up what you have at the same time as the frame then you can keep your optiosn open.

Went into the shop again today. I have to say it is hard work, I always feel uncomfortable, today was no different!

Anyway I managed to find out that Andy believes the frame to be from the mid 90's based on the features it has although this time he was even more reluctant to check for records of frame numbers!

I was too scared to ask about tubing types but using my scales it comes in around 4.6 pounds in weight which seems pretty good.

Ah well, on to paint. . .

cool - a little sad though that the main man isnt so helpful

M739 it is then...?