Advice - discs on non-disc frame

Got a nice Ti SS frame with horizontal dropouts and v-brake only. I realise it's probably sacrilege on here but I do really want to use discs.

Basically any advice ? I've found these things http://raleigh.co.uk/p_details.aspx?id=1163

which appear to do the job with minimal fuss. Has anyone used them or any other ideas (other than sticking with v-brakes)

I most likely will end up sticking with vees, but have to ask the question first....

Jon.

wel i have tried that but no luck. im still looking to modify mine somehow

:shock: I've never seen a blank post before.
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Fitting discs to a non disc frame.
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Modern method-

Weld one on,its about £80 at Argos
Fit what ever you want disc wise

Approximate cost
£50 for a basic rear brake
£50 for a semi decent hope rear wheel
£10-15 for a rotor
£80 for the welding
£60 for the respray

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Retro method-

Hunt down the extended hope C2 calliper that bolts to the inside of the frame.
Hunt down the narrower hope hub[axle and race are different]Ti-glide or bulb.
Hunt down one of the torsion arms that braces against the brake pivot.

Approximate cost-
£35-40 for the special brake[rear only]
£55-75 for the special hub wheel
£10 for the arm
£10-15 for the smaller rotor
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Some good tips here

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72659

How do those A2Z adapters actually attach to the frame then? Can't tell from any of the photos I've found...

Does this help?



So you loosen the 3 bolts, and slide the adapter over the dropout. You see the silver tab at the top pointing upwards, resting on the seat stay? It pivots on the big bolt so you can line it up flush with the stay. You then slide the wheel in from the bottom like normal, and feed the QR skewer through. Then you mount the calliper, and make sure that its positioned correctly, tighten up the bolts and the QR skewer.

I've had it on my Hardrock since June and I'm in two minds about it. For obvious reasons, you have to do it up REALLY tight. So tight in fact that I've bent the silver alloy face plate over towards the back plate. However, no matter how tight I've done the bolts, there still seems to be a bit of movement, since when you come to remove the skewer, it can be a stiff. This may simpy be down to the size and shape of my rear dropout - If you google for the adapter, you'll find it doesn't fit certain bikes, and mine just may be one that it doesn't fit particularly well. Also, they do recommend it for alloy frames only.

Having said all that, it works. I've ridden it hard for 3 months, and it has been fit and forget, no need for any adjustment whatsoever.

no i havent seen a blank post either. there really is nothing there! anyone have an i drive disc rear end?

zigzag":1vhqyfad said:

Does this help?

Click to expand...

Yes, lots, as I can see round the back a bit! both my Xizang and my FSRs have gert big parallel-sided slabs for dropouts, so these might be worth a try...

thats where my problem lies... i dont have flat dropouts

cyfa2809":21970qsf said:

thats where my problem lies... i dont have flat dropouts

Click to expand...

Same issue with steel Kona's (Cindercone & Lava dome). I saw a pic where a guy had modified his A2Z to fit a GT Zaskar I think. I'll try and find it.....