Varnish fix decals

Does anyone have experience with varnish fix decals? And if so do you have any suggestions for a varnish I can get easily in the UK that's suitable for applying these decals?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Hated them . Amy chance of a modern repro?

Hidden in the depth of the H Lloyd website there used to be some instructions, not sure if it's there after the move?

Thanks, yes that does seem to be the consensus. I'm assuming they are a sod to affix and then get the backing paper off whilst leaving all the decal where you put it?

I've found an envelope full of original Saxby decals so wanted to try them but I'm guessing they've stayed in the envelope for years because they're such a pain.

As @Midlife says, some info is on Lloyd’s website- under ‘varnish’, oddly. Sounds like you have enough to experiment with?
https://h-lloyd-cycles.myshopify.com/pages/faqs

I'd just say when removing the backing do not peel off but give it good soaking and try and turn it into sludge that can be sort of wiped off...

Morning Allen, do you know if they are definitely need the varnish? Some used to be produced with the “varnish” pre applied and this needed to be re-activated with white spirit.
If you have plenty it might be worth a try.

Midlife":2y51atv4 said:

I'd just say when removing the backing do not peel off but give it good soaking and try and turn it into sludge that can be sort of wiped off...

Click to expand...

I did wonder about that so thanks yes I will do that.

PeachyPM":2y51atv4 said:

Morning Allen, do you know if they are definitely need the varnish? Some used to be produced with the “varnish” pre applied and this needed to be re-activated with white spirit.
If you have plenty it might be worth a try.

Click to expand...

They're pretty old so it's hard to tell but it doesn't look as if there's anything on them but good shout, I'll give it a go on one.

having done a bit more googling before I commit to ballsing them up the consensus seems to be that if they're not pre varnished to use spar varnish which looks like its a North American term for marine varnish, so does that sound right? Because living by the sea I should just be able to nip down the local chandlers and pick up a tin of the right stuff.

allenh":3kfrndt7 said:

Midlife":3kfrndt7 said:

I'd just say when removing the backing do not peel off but give it good soaking and try and turn it into sludge that can be sort of wiped off...

Click to expand...

I did wonder about that so thanks yes I will do that.

PeachyPM":3kfrndt7 said:

Morning Allen, do you know if they are definitely need the varnish? Some used to be produced with the “varnish” pre applied and this needed to be re-activated with white spirit.
If you have plenty it might be worth a try.

Click to expand...

They're pretty old so it's hard to tell but it doesn't look as if there's anything on them but good shout, I'll give it a go on one.

having done a bit more googling before I commit to ballsing them up the consensus seems to be that if they're not pre varnished to use spar varnish which looks like its a North American term for marine varnish, so does that sound right? Because living by the sea I should just be able to nip down the local chandlers and pick up a tin of the right stuff.

Click to expand...

Bit of a mine field choosing a varnish based on generic nautical terms.... Spar varnish covers a whole range of exterior clear coats.
I think your main concern (after application of course) is what lacquer will go over the varnish as many boat type coatings have oils in.

If it were me, I’d drop an email to Donald at Bob Jacksons

Re:

Back in the 50s instructions said use Goldsize, but never found any, probably used for stabilising flaky plaster? We used common light oil bound clear varnish.
A very light application typically spread by finger. Let it nearly dry, seriously tacky then apply the transfer. After smoothing it down leave for perhaps a day or 2. Then gently wash off the paper and clean up with a little white spirit. It also helped to spread with the same finger a very thin smear on the intended location before applying the tranfer.

Keith

PeachyPM":352usi6a said:

Bit of a mine field choosing a varnish based on generic nautical terms.... Spar varnish covers a whole range of exterior clear coats.
I think your main concern (after application of course) is what lacquer will go over the varnish as many boat type coatings have oils in.

If it were me, I’d drop an email to Donald at Bob Jacksons

Click to expand...

Yes all the ones I'd looked at were oil based so did think it might be a problem, I'm sure I read somewhere originally varnish was applied over the top as well.

At the moment I think the are two issues, 1. how to get them to stick in the first place, and then 2. how to protect them afterwards.

keithglos":352usi6a said:

Back in the 50s instructions said use Goldsize, but never found any, probably used for stabilising flaky plaster? We used common light oil bound clear varnish.
A very light application typically spread by finger. Let it nearly dry, seriously tacky then apply the transfer. After smoothing it down leave for perhaps a day or 2. Then gently wash off the paper and clean up with a little white spirit. It also helped to spread with the same finger a very thin smear on the intended location before applying the tranfer.

Keith

Click to expand...

Thanks Keith, I think I've got some oil based clear varnish in the shed so that's good to know. I was expecting to use a small soft modelling paint brush but I expect it would be a one application only job before the brush was ruined as I doubt I'd get it clean afterwards so spreading with the finger it is then.

I might see if I've got some acrylic based varnish as well though as that's probably a better test if I have a chance of getting the lacquer to not react when I'm trying to protect them afterwards. When I can get some spare time I think I'm just going to try one on a frame I haven't painted yet and see what happens, if I get it to stick and stay on I can then try some lacquer over it.