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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:28 pm 
Gold Trader
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Unscrew the top cap and you lift out a string of elastomers... Is this like any other fork?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:39 pm 
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Be careful; those are highly toxic nerve gas elastomers; don’t drop one of them! :lol:

Star12


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 2:50 pm 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 4:54 pm
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Location: 'I have too many DiskDrives!' said no one, ever.
Seems just like Manitou to me, no?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:16 pm 
Gold Trader
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Manitou III maybe as I don't remember my Manitou II's working like that. It was a long time ago though!


Last edited by Swede on Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:23 pm 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 4:54 pm
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Location: 'I have too many DiskDrives!' said no one, ever.
Yes, defo like my Manitou 3 forks.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:26 pm 
Ain't no party like an S Club party
Ain't no party like an S Club party
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Location: 'I have too many DiskDrives!' said no one, ever.
Have a look here:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1 ... r+fork.pdf

Whilst that is for the rear of an FS frame, it's the same system principle as the III forks up front...


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 Post subject: Re: Funk unicorn
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:26 pm 
BoTM Winner
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So the issue is the gap (0.5mm) between the stanchions and the caps? Would an o-ring solve the problem Caspar? Need a pic to better understand I guess.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:57 pm 
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Hopefully this makes a bit more sense?


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 Post subject: Re: Funk unicorn
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:24 pm 
BoTM Winner
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I see. So that's a tough call since a potential and permanent solution may prohibit easy access to the internals long term. Do you plan on riding/using the fork? I assume so.


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 Post subject: Re: Funk unicorn
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:44 pm 
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If you use a proper industrial strength epoxy adhesive the gap between the two parts makes sense. I would suggest "Loctite Hysol 9430" (has one the highest shear and peel strength off all the commercially available adhesives out there). This adhesive requires a ca. 0.25 mm radial gap between the two materials in order to form a proper bond-line. (look up bond line control) Sometimes you can mix tiny glass beads into the adhesive to insure an even bond line. That being said bonding into a threaded part seems... well... wonky. don't get it why they would have threaded the surface if those parts are supposed to be bonded but I guess it should still work. This particular adhesive is very viscous so it will fill up the threads. The down side: it's expensive (mainly because it doesn't come in small quantities).


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