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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 6:35 am 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 1:41 pm
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Location: Plymouth, UK
Nice. Get it back to original - it derserves it. Look forward to seeing more of the build.


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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:51 am
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Location: Norfolk
Nice bike. I had a year 1983 Wes Mason frame I sold on here a while back that looked very similar (same prugnat lugs, same paint scheme). It rode very well. Steel can be just as fast as carbon. I think Greg Lemonds Time Trial at the 1989 tour de France still stands as the 2nd fastest time trial ever. Chris Boardmans National 25 mile record was also done a steel frame in '93 and wasn't broken until last year. Its just quite a bit heavier than carbon.

decals can be had on ebay too: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlton-Bicyc ... 4ac0cb5ac7

if you don't want to fork out 150+ at Argos etc on a respray, then best bet would be powdercoaters. You can apply decals yourself after the initial powdercoat, then take it back to the powdercoaters for a clearcoat to seal the decals.


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 12:30 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 1:53 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Portsmouth
Cheers for the replies. I think a bog standard powdercoat and do the black lining and decals myself would be a good idea. Should be able to get that done reasonably cheaply.

So I have decided to go for a nice restoration on this, put some nice drops on it and a more period seatpost.
The wheels are something I need to focus most about. I want to get together a matching set, I am thinking of using the original mavic hubs and building them onto new rims. The question is what rims? I like the mavic open cd at the rear but I doubt I will get another one to match. What do you guys recommend? H+son tb14s look pretty nice, or maybe open pros?

Another question, does anybody know what the biggest cog I can get in the back? Would a 14-24 work with the nuovo record?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:49 pm 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Loctez wrote:
Cheers for the replies. I think a bog standard powdercoat and do the black lining and decals myself would be a good idea. Should be able to get that done reasonably cheaply.

So I have decided to go for a nice restoration on this, put some nice drops on it and a more period seatpost.
The wheels are something I need to focus most about. I want to get together a matching set, I am thinking of using the original mavic hubs and building them onto new rims. The question is what rims? I like the mavic open cd at the rear but I doubt I will get another one to match. What do you guys recommend? H+son tb14s look pretty nice, or maybe open pros?

Another question, does anybody know what the biggest cog I can get in the back? Would a 14-24 work with the nuovo record?

Cheers


You may be able to squeeze a 28 on there, 24 should be OK.


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
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Is it really bad enough to need a blast/powdercoat? I understand the impulse to take it back to bare metal and end up with something homogenously shiny- I've done it myself.. but, unlike my bike, this Carlton is still in (most of) it's original paint after 36 years. All the transfers seem to be intact and legible. It can surely be patched up- maybe not invisibly, but that is sort of the point... do you want a bike that looks like it has survived from 1977, or one that looks like it never left 1977? I may have a different standpoint on this to some others- there is no right or wrong. Some may say you've got rust creeping around under your paint even if you think you've got rid of it- That may be, but I doubt it's any more compromising of frame integrity than the blast/powder treatment- which, done once, is likely to get repeated some time in the future. This is 531db, not the Forth bridge.

If it were down to me, I would get a wire brush on any bad rust/flaking paint on the bracket and lugs, and gently scrape/abrade any rust on the tubes- getting inside the tubes as well, as much as that is possible. Then prime/paint where needed.

I may be being hopelessly naive. At 'ground zero', you have a better idea about what to do than I have..Excuse my rant.. I just thought someone should stand up for the original paint before it gets consigned to oblivion..


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 11:29 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 1:53 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Portsmouth
I understand completely... I am considering just leaving it as it is, maybe touching it up a bit and taking off some rust. I think the £70+ I will spend on the resto could be put better into making the bike more enjoyable to ride (eg good wheels) as I am fairly skint...
I will get it running nicely then decide if its worth putting lots of effort into it. After all, what's not to like about some rat racer action!


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 6:50 am 
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
r.B.o.T.M. & P.o.T.M. Winner
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Location: Plymouth, UK
torqueless wrote:
Is it really bad enough to need a blast/powdercoat? I understand the impulse to take it back to bare metal and end up with something homogenously shiny- I've done it myself.. but, unlike my bike, this Carlton is still in (most of) it's original paint after 36 years. All the transfers seem to be intact and legible. It can surely be patched up- maybe not invisibly, but that is sort of the point... do you want a bike that looks like it has survived from 1977, or one that looks like it never left 1977? I may have a different standpoint on this to some others- there is no right or wrong. Some may say you've got rust creeping around under your paint even if you think you've got rid of it- That may be, but I doubt it's any more compromising of frame integrity than the blast/powder treatment- which, done once, is likely to get repeated some time in the future. This is 531db, not the Forth bridge.

If it were down to me, I would get a wire brush on any bad rust/flaking paint on the bracket and lugs, and gently scrape/abrade any rust on the tubes- getting inside the tubes as well, as much as that is possible. Then prime/paint where needed.

I may be being hopelessly naive. At 'ground zero', you have a better idea about what to do than I have..Excuse my rant.. I just thought someone should stand up for the original paint before it gets consigned to oblivion..


I agree entirely.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 3:18 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 1:53 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Portsmouth
I don't think I will paint this. The only really bad rust is on the tope tube and that will be mostly covered by the brake cable anyway.
Cleaned up the parts, it's actually in very nice condition:

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:10 pm
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Quote:
I don't think I will paint this. The only really bad rust is on the tope tube and that will be mostly covered by the brake cable anyway.


That is a bit ambiguous! I can't work out whether it means you are happy to touch up the paint under there, or you are happy to leave the rust there? Just to clarify, I don't think anyone is suggesting that the rust should be left to itself, least of all where it is hidden by cables or components. It is localised to a few small areas of the frame. In those locations, I would clean it up, and, on the tubes, if it has gone deep, give it a probe here and there with something sharp, just to make sure the rust hasn't gone right through the tube. (hopefully not). Then optionally some rust neutralising product as described by Elysarian, definitely primer and paint. You won't need much.. some wet-or-dry paper, a couple of tins of Humbrol, brush, thinners. It doesn't have to be pretty- you can always flatten it later with wet-or-dry and go over with another coat if you feel like it.

The Campag. stuff has come up nice. That's a Nuovo Gransport front mech... functionally identical to Record- visually about identical with the old Record cage without the holes, apart from the lip at the front of the outer cage-plate.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:01 pm 
Dirt Disciple

Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 1:53 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Portsmouth
Thanks for that! Unfortunate the front mech is quite badly pitted and the limit screws are rusted up, a shame is its a lovely piece of kit! I think because its on the front line for dripping sweat it has suffered quit badly.

I understand what you are saying about the rust. I spent time today with a wire brush and wd40 and have got most of the stuff off. There is no serious damage, most of it is just surface rust that comes off with some elbow grease. The bottom bracket area is my only worry, I havn't got the tools to take it apart to have a proper look. (Will get round to the eventually). I will touch up these parts with some enamel paits I have around, it shouldn't look too bad, better than rust!

I am planning on getting a 14-24 freewheel for this (probabally a new suntour or shimano one) with an new 8 speed sram chain. Would this be an issue?


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