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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2019 7:37 pm 
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 20909
Location: Northest North Yorkshire. whippet real good...
Thanks that’s really helpful.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 10:33 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:22 pm
Posts: 399
Location: London
Interesting thread...

I’ve had 3 PRST-4’s, 2 19”s and a 21”. I bought the first 19” to ride, the 2nd 19” just in case I needed spares for the first one, and the 21” because I’m 6’3” and not exactly waif like.

A couple of things I noticed that contradict previous posts in this thread though (sorry);

1/ all 3 of my PRST-4’s have taken 27mm seatposts withiut shims.
2/ the 21” frame is 20mm longer headtube to seat-tube than the 19’s.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 9:49 am 
Retro Guru

Joined: Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:57 pm
Posts: 1717
Location: Porto / Plymouth
How did I never see or hear about a Whyte PRST until now?? I'm looking forward to your ride report, THM.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 10:11 am 
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 20909
Location: Northest North Yorkshire. whippet real good...
Me too. Currently untouched due to various other matters. I will get around to it once the move has happened and I have my new shed.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:43 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:42 pm
Posts: 2649
Location: VCC Member 5558 East Riding of Yorkshire
The History Man wrote:
Me too. Currently untouched due to various other matters. I will get around to it once the move has happened and I have my new shed.



Here's a helpful guide...


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 1:21 pm 
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
GOLD | PoTM | Rider | rBOTM
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:26 pm
Posts: 20909
Location: Northest North Yorkshire. whippet real good...
:facepalm:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 2:01 pm 
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
Gold Trader / PoTM Winner / RB Rider
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:13 pm
Posts: 6445
Location: Royal Forest of Dean (Still looking for the Bear !)
Nice Retro come back

anyone under 40, or from overseas won’t have a clue what your on about


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:25 pm 
rider | rBoTM Winner
rider | rBoTM Winner
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Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:42 pm
Posts: 2649
Location: VCC Member 5558 East Riding of Yorkshire
Retro Spud wrote:
Nice Retro come back

anyone under 40, or from overseas won’t have a clue what your on about



And that’s how we like it on our little Dias.... 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 9:10 pm 
Old School Hero
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Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2016 8:46 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Chorley
I did a lap of a local red graded circuit in 11 minutes 34 recently. No way could I have matched that on a modern bike like a Whyte T130. I believe these bikes were a missed opportunity in MTB design. The linkage front and virtual pivot point rear suspension was years ahead of their time.
https://www.strava.com/activities/22838 ... 7681938120
https://wordpress.com/post/mountainbiker.home.blog/270


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 3:14 pm 
Retro Guru
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:33 pm
Posts: 631
Location: The Kingdom of Wessex
Duxuk wrote:
The shock is a 165mm with (I'm pretty sure) 43mm of travel. The problem is that you can't have a shock with levers, dials or valves sticking out because there isn't the space, especially for the front shock. The original XFusion and Fox shocks work well. They're neat and tidy and I think an air shock must be the way to go because only earlier PRSTs and JWs had coil shocks. You need sufficient pressure, as mentioned above, to make the system work. If you use a coil shock you need to give it plenty of preload to prevent bobbing.
It's a very unconventional bike. You need virtually zero sag both front ant rear. The advice of body weight in PSI rear and 75% of that front works well in both my XFusion and Fox shocks.
I fitted a DNM shock at the rear but it didn't seem very good. I rebuilt my XFusions just by replacing the oil and they are like new.


Jas, the front and rear shocks are the same length eye to eye and stroke too. You can have a front shock with dials and levers if you fit it as it my picture. The only thing you need to make sure is that you dont get a "high volume" shock - they are too wide. a standard RP23 or a DT swiss Carbon shock fit - I have used both of them successfully.

Mine is relegated to the winter dog walk bike, so is not getting much love now.

The best thing I made for this bike was the front mud guard, it totally protects the front shock - I used an old car wheel arch liner - pretty tough plastic.


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