Freehub body removal help please: brute force or less ignorance?

[Rotorhead]

I can see the hex.

Proper Allen key (modern hubs are larger than 10mm) in 12mm size NDS for Ritchey Logic.
Things to try...
I would put it (key) in a vice/bench/something to clamp the long side.
I would give it the Allen key when in the hub a few whacks with a metal wallet to try crack and interface...
I would spray the shite out of it.

I would leave it in bright hot sunlight...

Then try and undo it.

Thanks for confirming 12mm NDS for Ritchey Logic. I can see a hexish shape on the NDS photo too and that’s the side the 12mm locates - so all good so far. However before I get medieval on it, can you confirm that it should be turned clockwise to unscrew from that side?

 

[Rotorhead]

If 10mm Allen key is to small and 12 mm is to big, is it possible that it's a 7/16 Allen key?

Thanks, 12mm fits NDS, and that is confirmed by Fluffy Chicken so seems to be now a question of which direction to turn it and how to break the bond without breaking the wheel.

 

[Rotorhead]

But ultimately the Torque required might be more than the wheel can take - we've had a few of these. it's almost always a cheap freehub like this - probably fitted dry with a rattle gun, and they don't want it to ever come off anyway.

In this case you'll kill the rim, and the spokes won't be that clever.

So when you've tried to the point you feel the rim bending, just unlace that wheel, recycle the hub and rebuild with another, better one. cheap to find!
It doesn't need to be exactly the same flange size - on a 3 Cross, 1cm of flange difference makes only about 1mm spoke length difference.

Loadsof choice.

Thanks for the warnings. Damaging stuff with excessive force is a speciality of mine. It looks like it undoes with 12mm from the NDS. I will try some penetrating oil in there and try to determine which direction to turn it before using anymore force.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Sadly penetrating oil is overrated on a large area steel to ally bond undisturbed for 20 years.

The heat might help more, but to get significant heat to the core of the hub I'd suggest a heat gun on the outside for quite a few minutes. (If you go through the core, the steel will be hottest).

If you go too hot for too long you could change the temper of the hub, which could be very bad.

Occasionally I've then used plumbers freeze spray on the inside just before applying the torque. I was sure it would help, but never has
Worth a try if you've got some to hand though.

I would suggest then striking the allen key with a hefty hammer, as it's a shock you need to break the bond more than anything.

You've just got to hope you're turning it the right way

 

[FluffyChicken]

which way, honestly couldn't tell you. I would automatically go anti-clockwise first then try the other and not think about it even with fecking brute force. I can't remember to much about them.
But these are Formula hubs I believe but fitted a bit differently (I just did a search https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ritchey-hubs-how-do-you-get-the-freewheel-off.557795/) Formula hubs are screw in from the Drive Side with the usual threading, so you need to undo that from the NDS in the same way, so likely clockwise.

Yep, good luck.