Need help finding (making?) fine threaded brake bosses

biocandy

Senior Retro Guru
Thought I was pretty good at finding parts on the internet, but turns out I'm not :facepalm:

I was going to replace my current steel bosses with some titanium ones.. can't have steel bosses on a ti bike now can we.. but removing them wasn't easy, and I damaged one of them.. and now I can't seem to find new ones anywhere.. M8 with 0.75 pitch.. how hard can it be..?? Do I need to buy threading set, or what's the biggy..? know it's a fine thread, which is rare on pivot screws apparently, but considering the huge supply on bike parts seems I should find them somewhere.. Ideal would be titanium ones, but I'm guessing steel ones must do too now.. Need help :)

M8 thread is 11mm long, block 5mm and boss 16mm.. picture below.. many thanks for any help


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Re:

There used to be a chap on eBay that made and sold custom Ti fasteners for classic minis, might be worth seeing if he's still in business and if so can her turn some up for you?
 
I would buys a set of Ti ones in the M10 flavor (no hole through them!), turn them down to about 7.8mm OD then tap them with a commercially available M8 x.75 die. The M8 dies in this size are fairly common. You will need access to a lathe (probably a 10 min job at best). Make sure it is indeed a M8 fine-pitch thread and not some similar sized imperial fastener!(before you start buying anything)
 
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Great many thanks for your answers :) now where do I get hold of this ebay chap who made custom ti bosses..?

Think I'll try and find some, or have one make ones for me first.. my craftsman skills are good when it comes to tree, but insufficient to say the least when it comes to titanium :facepalm:
 
Find a machine shop in your area, get the M10 bosses and have them do the rest. They should have all the necessary tools. Titanium is not that difficult to machine, just a little trickier but you have a small easy job.
 
Re:

Try Toronto Cycles? Send them an email.
You can check if it's M8x0.75 as that is the same thread as a granny chainring bolt. So either screw it into a crank or a outer chanting bolt to check.

It's not something I can help with though, especially after someone has said it's a less than ten minute job!
 
syncrosfan":1765cpw0 said:
Find a machine shop in your area, get the M10 bosses and have them do the rest. They should have all the necessary tools. Titanium is not that difficult to machine, just a little trickier but you have a small easy job.


So you're saying that the threads on a m10 stud won't mess up if I'm having a pro doing m8 fine threads..? Them m10 threads sure does look deep


Got a quick reply from Toronto cycles saying they're not into titanium at the moment.. Will have a try with those germans :)

must be someone doing custom titanium that can help me out.. right..? :oops:
 
Re: Re:

Rampage":1ibgd2qq said:
Try Toronto Cycles? Send them an email.
You can check if it's M8x0.75 as that is the same thread as a granny chainring bolt. So either screw it into a crank or a outer chanting bolt to check.

It's not something I can help with though, especially after someone has said it's a less than ten minute job!



Could you do alloy ones..? Yes of course, chainring bolts fits perfectly :facepalm: on the fork though it's easier - m8 p1.25
 
"Them m10 threads sure does look deep" they should stop somewhere around 8.8mm (depth) which still gives you around 1 mm OD to play with until you hit the necessary 7.8mm.
What I'm more worried about is: it seems most M10 brake studs have a hole in the middle to lighten them. The ones I have in my hand have a 5.2mm hole (those are steel ones) I think there's still enough material left after you shave down the M10 thread to 7.8mm OD (you're cutting fine thread which goes less deep). I would definitely exhaust the search options for existing brake studs in the size you need. If you don't find any, buy a set of cheap Chinese titanium M10 studs and have a local machine shop bodge away at them. Worst case you wasted 10 bucks or so. If that doesn't work then you have to go full custom which is still make-able but more expensive.
 
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