WTD - Shimano Ax/Ex DYNA-drive pedal adapters, Retro 80's

[Elev12k]

Personally aero pedals are the way with clips and of course correct blue aero straps. Instead of getting pedal adapters to ride with clipless I'd use it as a nice excuse to buy some Quoc Pham shoes, or just ride with your favourite semi brogues ;-)

Anyway, best I have found if you must use the adapters (and HAVE to have Shimano ones) is this chap. I have not made contact, scroll down - they have a 'new' flash so looks hopeful:

http://www.bikeville.com/pedals.html

I have some very good pedals here and there are often NOS ones available at reasonable price in the usual places - for me they are a key part of the overall design of the group so I stick with 'em.

Thanks for the link. God knows how you found that

I love the look of aero pedals, problem is I intend to use these cranks on my TimeTrial bike and really need to run my DuraAce pedals and Race shoes.

Wanted to try 165 cranks and these seemed really cool (I just love to mix modern with old, keeps um talking in at the race HQ ). Also the older high-end stuff seems to be of a better quality than the modern equivalent.

Assuming I did run the correct aero pedals how would that effect my seat height adjustment?? Am I correct in assuming that with the aero pedals you need to drop your seat by 5mm to compensate for the under-hang of the pedals (think that's the idea of the system, to lower the whole body).

Therefore if I’m converting from 170mm cranks to these in 165mm cranks with the correct dyna pedals then I would guess that I wouldn't need to touch my seat height. Normally when going to a shorter crank you would add the equivalent deduction in crank length to your seat height.

Am I right??

From the Koga catalogue I recall DD pedals position your feet 14mm lower. Koga designed the the frames around it. Lower for a given size, hence the Full Power Drive decals on particular frames.

If you use shorter cranks you will also have less leverage. Moreover when your cranks level, your feet will also be 14mm lower.

 

[Elev12k]

Correction, it is 17mm

 

[mightymidget]

Correction, it is 17mm

That's a lot more than I thought

Looks like it will have to be adapters if I want to use these cranks....

 

[bikejunk]

Lots of 600AX on Ebay currently, all on short auctions...

 

[DynaDrive AX]

Hi!

While searching for all things Shimano AX related I found another source of readily available adaptors to use AX cranks with standard 9/16" thread pedals - this time from Germany:

( As it is my first post, just found out I am not allowed to post URLs - the link wil follow ASAP ).

Personally, I would stick with AX pedals, particularly for a TT/tri bike. I do not wish to go into pro et contra clips/straps and clipless safety issue(s) here, it has been covered in many cycling forums. One has to decide for him/herself and TT/Tri bike is the least likely to cause any problem(s) to other riders as drafting and other cycling in close proximity of other rider(s) is illegal anyway. But please, should you decide to ride clips/straps, it has to become second nature to unclip at least one foot whenever you can anticipate stopping is unavoidable - particularly riders born A.L. ( After Look, about 1985 ) have rarely if ever seen a bike with clips/straps pedals, let alone riden it - it takes some time for this to become automatic.

Ideaally, AX pedals require different frame geometry - frame should be about 15 mm lower than frame for the same rider using conventional pedals. This gives one smaller/stiffer/lighter frame that is more aerodinamic - in a word - faster. Of course one can lower the position of seat and bars on existing frame accordingly and then decide if AX is his/hers thing and to what extent he or she is willing to go from there.

Nowadays it is difficult to get really decent cycling shoes made for cleats for quill pedals. One solution that will appeal to most riders that have shoes with 3 hole mounting ( for Look, Time, Shimano etc ) is so use
cleats originally used for Keirin races in Japan that use all three or just two
of the Look holes to mount the cleat. Yoshida Champ cleats are perhaps the best choice for road racing - they are not so extreme as some other track cleats, are (kind of) available and do not cost an arm and a leg. I found them in USA ( also on ebay ) and direct from Japan - at sligttly below $ 30 plus shipping that unfortunately almost doubles the price in this case.

It also is possible to modify/adapt the (worn out) Look/Shimano cleats
for use with quill pedals - but that really is last resort if you are really broke - and know how to do it right in the first place. For safety I would definitely reccomend Yoshida ( or similar, if you can find them ) cleats.

I am familiar with AX since 1981/2 - and to this day could not figure out how the original blue straps are supposed to hold foot firmly in place, as they should be doing. The most fitting description of their functionality is given on Velobase - they could not hold a bag of chips together... For any serious cycling, please use normal straps, be it leather or nylon. It may come as a surprise what prices can NOS straps command these days !

I recently put together a TT/tri bike built around AX pedals, with correct frame AX geometry etc. I stopped using AX in 1986 when Look came out and was missing that "something more" feeling ever since. Riding AX again felt like returning home after a real, real long time. Instantly. Wish I could say the same for automatic uncliping without having to think about it while stopping is unavoidable...24 years of clipless turned that once automatic reaction into a Sleeping Beauty.

Happy cycling to everyone,

Aleksander

 

[Tel]

Due to another forum member changing my plans with the aero set up I have I now have some pedal adaptors available.

PM me if you want them