Trek 830 - A touring prospect
- Thread starter NeilM
- Start date
Re:
Bike all stripped down to a bare frame, and... it had to happen.
All was going well until I got to removing the chainset. I always start drive side crank first and in this case the cover bolt was a little stiff, so, that off a quick squirt of GT85 was applied inside and out and then the crank extractor tool was screwed in. Slack taken up I inevitably encountered some resistance, I applied pressure and gave the end of the crank tool a tap or two with a hammer, this was repeated a couple of times and seemed to be working, especially when there was that inevitable give and everything started to move.... well, by everything, I mean the threads from the inside of the crank. :facepalm:
I moved the frame in to the big solid bike stand and stared work on the non drive side, that came off as easy as you like so I started on the BB. A quick squirt of GT85 and then a little over 120ft lbs applied with my (Hewland Gearbox) torque wrench (note to self, buy a knuckle bar), and everything was on the move, at which point I realised I was dealing with one of the metal BB, plastic d/s cup type shimano bottom brackets, so, out came the big punch and mofo hammer. Success! d/s crank removed.
The rest was plain sailing and a quick rub down with white spirits has most of the cack removed.
So, a new BB is going to be needed, along with a new 1" threaded headset, because the factory fitted one probably cost the best part of 20p, so is serviceable, but mostly made of plastic. I have a choice of cranks, from Shimano SLX, through RaceFace to Middleburn.
Next job, is to polish and wax the whole frame and forks, and then we can start rebuilding.
Bike all stripped down to a bare frame, and... it had to happen.
All was going well until I got to removing the chainset. I always start drive side crank first and in this case the cover bolt was a little stiff, so, that off a quick squirt of GT85 was applied inside and out and then the crank extractor tool was screwed in. Slack taken up I inevitably encountered some resistance, I applied pressure and gave the end of the crank tool a tap or two with a hammer, this was repeated a couple of times and seemed to be working, especially when there was that inevitable give and everything started to move.... well, by everything, I mean the threads from the inside of the crank. :facepalm:
I moved the frame in to the big solid bike stand and stared work on the non drive side, that came off as easy as you like so I started on the BB. A quick squirt of GT85 and then a little over 120ft lbs applied with my (Hewland Gearbox) torque wrench (note to self, buy a knuckle bar), and everything was on the move, at which point I realised I was dealing with one of the metal BB, plastic d/s cup type shimano bottom brackets, so, out came the big punch and mofo hammer. Success! d/s crank removed.
The rest was plain sailing and a quick rub down with white spirits has most of the cack removed.
So, a new BB is going to be needed, along with a new 1" threaded headset, because the factory fitted one probably cost the best part of 20p, so is serviceable, but mostly made of plastic. I have a choice of cranks, from Shimano SLX, through RaceFace to Middleburn.
Next job, is to polish and wax the whole frame and forks, and then we can start rebuilding.
Re:
Gave the frame and forks a good clean and a once over with the T Cut.
Tonight the rear wheel was cleaned; rim, spokes, hub, freewheel. I then pulled the bearings out as they were a little grumbly. Nothing to worry about, just old grease.
So, back wheel cleaned and Conti Contact II tyre fitted.
I also ordered a new headset, pedals, 7 speed cassette and chain. I am going to see what the original Gripshift shifters are like, but as a backup I have some Sachs Wavey shifters in reserve.
Tomorrow night it is the front wheel and hopefully a really good polish / wax of the frame. Take the old headset out and then sort out a different set of cranks / BB.
Gave the frame and forks a good clean and a once over with the T Cut.
Tonight the rear wheel was cleaned; rim, spokes, hub, freewheel. I then pulled the bearings out as they were a little grumbly. Nothing to worry about, just old grease.
So, back wheel cleaned and Conti Contact II tyre fitted.
I also ordered a new headset, pedals, 7 speed cassette and chain. I am going to see what the original Gripshift shifters are like, but as a backup I have some Sachs Wavey shifters in reserve.
Tomorrow night it is the front wheel and hopefully a really good polish / wax of the frame. Take the old headset out and then sort out a different set of cranks / BB.
Re:
The d/s crank was a real shame as I really was hoping to use as many of the original parts as possible. That said, it weighs a ton (an old Imperial one, not one of your Johnny Foreigner metric Tonne's) compared to the SLX, so every cloud and all that.
I use some green gooey stuff called Bike Grease 2000 made by MOTOREX. I bought it some time ago and have used it for just about everything as it is water resistant and a lot nicer to use than the blue outboard motor grease I have used in the past.
The d/s crank was a real shame as I really was hoping to use as many of the original parts as possible. That said, it weighs a ton (an old Imperial one, not one of your Johnny Foreigner metric Tonne's) compared to the SLX, so every cloud and all that.
I use some green gooey stuff called Bike Grease 2000 made by MOTOREX. I bought it some time ago and have used it for just about everything as it is water resistant and a lot nicer to use than the blue outboard motor grease I have used in the past.
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