Sunbeam, information and wheel removal.

[vic b]

Hello All
I am new to this and have attempted to add two pic's so I hope all has worked.
I have had this Sunbeam for eighteen years and enjoy a short trip here and there.
Would anybody be kind enough to tell me a little more about it please.
The number stamped on the frame at the rear wheel securing nut is S45263.
Not being at all knowledgeable about bikes, here is the problem. I need to fit new tyres and tubes and cannot see how to remove the rear wheel without dismantling many components. There must be a quicker way ...please?
The bike is in fair condition but now needs a bit of restoration, pealing chrome and faded paint.
All info is most welcome as I know nothing.
Thanks
Vic

 

[keithglos]

Re:

Hi Vic,
You have a BSA built Sunbeam from the 1950s.
I was retailing these at that time, and this was a major cause of my enduring dislike of all chaincase roadsters, and an enduring love of the Campagnolo quick release. I have not done the wheel removal since the 1950's.

BSA actually made a modified hub that enabled the wheel to be removed, and left the chaincase and cog in the frame.

You need to remove enough rear brake parts for the rim to clear. There is a removable part of the chaincase to allow the wheel to be dropped out. If you can drop the chain off the chainwheel it allows a little more slack at the back. Sometimes removing the chain connecting link is required. I used to have a workshop stand which allowed the bike to be suspended back wheel down to try and keep the chain more or less in place.

A few more close up pictures of the chaincase area around the rear cog could help me to remember, these were all not all the same.

Keith

 

[keithglos]

Re:

Further memories, I used to remove the chain connecting link at the rear cog, and tie a longish piece of wire to each end of the chain, so that it will not get lost in the chaincase. Another reason for hanging the bike rear wheel downwards, so that the chain hopefully remains somewhere near where it should be.

Keith

 

[glpinxit]

Mate, where (approximately) are you? Include that in your profile and there could be a helpful member near you.

I had the women's version of this. £5 from the council tip and I rode it as my pub bike for 5 years - perfect role for it as utterly undesirable to anyone else and dynohub lighting. 2 disadvantages- terrible frame flex, especially under downhill braking when the head tube would have 2" of judder. And every trip to the High St took twice as long as old geezers wanted to talk about the bike.

Nowadays my grandpa status and RetroBike membership means I'm one of those old geezers!

 

[vic b]

Re:

Hi
Thanks both.
I am in Cardiff.
Keithglos.... I will take a few more photos and post soon, really helpful.
Glpinxit...I agree its all the things you said, that's why I like it and that's why it is desireable to me.
I also like talking to old people.
King regards
Vic

 

[Old Ned]

Re: Re:

I also like talking to old people.

That's why I talk to myself a lot :roll:

Nice old roadster. I can vaguely remember a bike with a gearcase being around in my very early days but no idea who's it was now. Although, now I think a bit harder, it could have been my sister's perhaps. Probably a dark green Raleigh.

 

[vic b]

Re:

Hello All

Well thanks again for the info. This site appears to have a lot of likeminded old uns...great.
Here are a few more pics of the chaincase as requested. It sounds quite a task to change the tyre.

Cheers
Vic

 

[keithglos]

Glad I gave these up.
Get the rear brake out of the way, undo the gear cable at the adjuster, undo the rear mudguard stays, and rear hub nuts.
Have 2 bits of wire ready, you will probably need to tie them on the frame somewhere, to hold the chain. Remove the little cover behind the cog, locate the chain connecting link and as you remove it slip the wires through the end links and tie the wire to anything convenient to hold the chain. You should then be able to remove the back wheel.
If you lose the chain inside the chaincase it can be a bit of a struggle.

The gear adjustment is correct when the indicator rod on the left side is level with the end of the axle in the middle gear.

Keith.

 

[vic b]

Re:

Hi Keith
Thanks so much for the info.
I will attempt this week.
Regards