Suggestions on making my kona lighter

[perry]

:shock:

please change to a longer post ; your putting a lot of faith in the top of the seattube taking all the strain . I wouldn't be surprised if it tears right off .

Change to a longer post and drill it .

 

[mikesnowdon]

:shock: It seems silly to risk buggering up a perfectly good frame for the sake of 50grammes though- I've always assumed the seatpost MUST extend below the top tube.

If the frame gets damaged in any way as a result I'll give you the whole bike ok

Like I already said. There is the same amount of post in the frame as the recommended minimum by Thomson. And If kona thought it was an issue they would'nt have extended seat tubes. Chill winston!

You worry too much

EDIT: I take it back! You cant have the bike! (Im going to get a new post)

 

[mikesnowdon]

Machined angle?

I assume you have cut/machined the slot between the upper and lower bands, and I just thought I could see a line there (below)

No its done by hand.

 

[mikesnowdon]

:shock:

please change to a longer post ; your putting a lot of faith in the top of the seattube taking all the strain . I wouldn't be surprised if it tears right off .

Change to a longer post and drill it .

lol!

 

[mikesnowdon]

OK. You guys are right. I'll have to buy a new post then!

 

[suburbanreuben]

:shock: It seems silly to risk buggering up a perfectly good frame for the sake of 50grammes though- I've always assumed the seatpost MUST extend below the top tube.

If the frame gets damaged in any way as a result I'll give you the whole bike ok

Like I already said. There is the same amount of post in the frame as the recommended minimum by Thomson. And If kona thought it was an issue they would'nt have extended seat tubes. Chill winston!

You worry too much

EDIT: I take it back! You cant have the bike! (Im going to get a new post)

Thanks for the offer , but if I want a frame knackered, I'll send it off to Bob the Bramley Butcher.
Do get yourself a longer post though- It WILL bend/snap the seat tube.

 

[Anthony]

There is the same amount of post in the frame as the recommended minimum by Thomson. And If kona thought it was an issue they would'nt have extended seat tubes. Chill winston!

I think I'm right in saying that the post manufacturer's recommended minimum insert is concerned with the integrity of the post, not the frame. I think any frame manufacturer would recommend inserting below the welded area.

 

[mikesnowdon]

:shock: It seems silly to risk buggering up a perfectly good frame for the sake of 50grammes though- I've always assumed the seatpost MUST extend below the top tube.

If the frame gets damaged in any way as a result I'll give you the whole bike ok

Like I already said. There is the same amount of post in the frame as the recommended minimum by Thomson. And If kona thought it was an issue they would'nt have extended seat tubes. Chill winston!

You worry too much

EDIT: I take it back! You cant have the bike! (Im going to get a new post)

Thanks for the offer , but if I want a frame knackered, I'll send it off to Bob the Bramley Butcher.
Do get yourself a longer post though- It WILL bend/snap the seat tube.

believe me, it would be worth it for the components alone (maybe not the seatpost though), but your not getting it so there.

 

[Mr Panda]

Oooooh yes - something deep inside me says the post would be better terminating at least and inch below the top tube, but maybe that's because I'm on the heftier side of 16 (17?) stone :shock:

I quite like light bikes, but mainly because I have to mount up tp 4 on the Landrover roof rack assembly.
Years of hoisting the kids crApollos up there have seen to that When it comes to actually riding them, if your in the 25lb area, then thats plenty good enough, unless your trying for an Olympic medal perhaps

 

[mvd1974]

Some weight weenie tips:

- cut of the seatpost what you don't need, keep about 8cm in the frame (but that meantioned before)
- make your outer cables as short as possible without getting in trouble when steering. And of course fit the inner cables with 'm. This also makes your brakes an der's work better.
- buy some kevlar tires. Continental Supersonic's for example..
- look for some latex inner tubes. They lose air over time, but are more resistent to puncture and reduces the rolling resistance of the wheel. Oh yeah, and mostly they are lighter than butil ones.
- Maybe some Tune QR's.
- some other padels.

If you want to spend more money, check out these sites:
http://www.tune.de/
http://www.fotos.light-bikes.de/main.php
http://www.poshbikes.com/make.php?34
..and the site of a friend: http://www.bikeboosting.nl/index.php?id=169,0,0,1,0,0

...the problem is: if you go there, it's difficult to 'not spending money on gram'...