Sturmey Archer retrofit questions

[CanAmSteve]

I'm retrofitting some new SA drum-braked wheels onto two old frames. I bought most of what I needed, but of course missed a few critical pieces. Due to the wide variety (and lifespan) of SA hubs, it's extremely difficult to Google or search within the forums for answers.

So - 1st question - the supplied brake cables are double-ended. That is, they have road "pears" at one end of the cable and MTB barrels at the other. I'm familiar with the "cut off what you don't need" cables, BUT, these also sport a small barrel fitting on the "pear" end that locates perfectly in the drum brake lever on the hub - as if tailor-made. However, the cable length (the free part outside the housing) is a good 10 cm too long, meaning the cable can't be adjusted to pull properly. Now, you would think SA knew the distance from the cable stop to the drum lever, so why so much extra? I now see they sell a cable end clamp (similar to the cable clamp on a caliper brake) but of course I don't have any... As soon as I cut off the cable end, the supplied "barrel" is useless, so these were possibly made for a specific bike (maybe with a fork-mounted cable stop)?

2nd - the "indicator rod/chain" - the little rod that screws into the hub and connects to the shift cable - doesn't really want to screw in more than about two turns. There's a good 5mm of thread on the end of the rod, but it really doesn't want to thread in that easily, and I don't want to force it, as it is about 1mm diameter. I have two hubs and both are the same. I seem to recall from my youth that these things threaded in and "bottomed out" quite easily - then you back off to align the chain. Why should there be so little takeup or such resistance? Thanks!

 

[keithglos]

Re:

Steve,
My experiences of SA ended in the late 60s. If you have old original SA 3 speed AW type it it may be that the replacement toggle chains have the wrong thread.
The 4 speed have the indicator on nthe left, with the toggle chain screwing into a rod inserted from the other end.

It is simple enough to drop out the hub spindle and check what is happening.

If your cables are soldered ends not moulded then it is perfectly simple to resolder one end.

Depending on youir reply I can elaborate this, it takes longer to write than do it.

I can't remember the old SA hub brakes being very effective.
Keith

 

[CanAmSteve]

Thanks Keith - the parts are all "new" (and current) so you would think they would match. My SA experience also has taken a long holiday - seems there are many variations even in current offerings. The brake ends are "cast" I guess - the typical "universal (road/MTB) type cable (cut off what you don't need) but offered with that integral stop for the drum brakes, so cutting off that end wastes it (and keeping it would leave you with either a too-long cable or no cast end for the brake lever end).

If these brakes work at all, they will be an improvement on the originals Thanks again - Steve