star nut wont hold

assti

Retro Newbie
I am in the process of fitting some bombers to my 92 kona explosif. To fit the stem to the forks I fitted a star nut.
When tightening the bolt down however all it does is pull the star nut to until it destroyed it. Is a star nut usually up to The job of holding the stem on or should I be looking at fitting something else???
 
The top cap and star nut are only to adjust and tension the headset bearings, the forks are actually held by the handlebar stem. You only tighten the top cap/star nut enough to take up any slack and play in the headset bearings, which does not usually need to be particularly tight, then tighten the handlebar stem on the stearer to hold it all secure.
 
A star-fangled-nut should do the job, although you can get expanding bolts etc (Hope Hed Doctor?) but I've never had any issues with the SFN.

Try again with another SFN. Make sure the SFN is straight in the steerer, and not slightly askew. Don't go mad with tightening it all down, go slowly, check, and tighten more if needed.

What Aheadset is it? is it 1" 1/8th?
 
Thanks for the replies. There must be something else not right with the set up then as it appears the only thing that holds the stem in place is the star nut. Without that tight the handle bars and stem are loose. With my old forks (project 2's) and velocity stem. They seemed to just bolt directly to the thread that was inside the forks.
 
can you get a pic of the setup you have?

Tightening a threadless headset requires tightening the preload bolt (or cap bolt) in the cap on the top of the stem. This bolt is connected to a star nut driven down into the steerer tube that acts as an anchor by gripping the inside of the steerer tube with a downward force. The star nut may be replaced by a self expanding wedge in some designs. The bolt compresses the stem down onto spacers, usually aluminum, which in turn compress the headset bearing cups. The preload bolt does not hold the fork onto the bike; after the preload is set, the stem bolts must be tightened to secure the fork in place. The adjustment must be made such that there is no play in the bearings, but allow the fork to turn smoothly without binding or excessive friction.

In this system, the spacers are important in placing the stem and preload bolt in the correct position on the steerer tube. Thus the stack height of the stem becomes important. The steerer tube of the fork must be cut to length such that it leaves at least enough of the steerer tube protruding above the headset for the stem to clamp on to. Bicycle racers seeking the greatest saddle-to-handlebar drop for better aerodynamics will often forgo spacers and cut the steerer tube down to match the headset bearing cup stack height in addition to the stem stack height.
 
assti":3lwflo14 said:
Thanks for the replies. There must be something else not right with the set up then as it appears the only thing that holds the stem in place is the star nut. Without that tight the handle bars and stem are loose. With my old forks (project 2's) and velocity stem. They seemed to just bolt directly to the thread that was inside the forks.

This sound very much like you are trying to use and bolt a threaded stem aka quill from your old threaded setup onto a ahead setup.
The starfangled but is not designed for thgst and neither is the internal diameter of the steerertube.
You need to get an ahead style stem.
Another name for ahead is 'threadless'.

www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categ ... et-service
might give you an overview.
 
assti":x9n50ps6 said:
Thanks for the replies. There must be something else not right with the set up then as it appears the only thing that holds the stem in place is the star nut. Without that tight the handle bars and stem are loose. With my old forks (project 2's) and velocity stem. They seemed to just bolt directly to the thread that was inside the forks.

This sound very much like you are trying to use and bolt a threaded stem aka quill from your old threaded setup onto a ahead setup.
The starfangled but is not designed for thgst and neither is the internal diameter of the steerertube.
You need to get an ahead style stem.
Another name for ahead is 'threadless'.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service
might give you an overview.
 
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