Spinning bearings - in the wrong way entirely…

2manyoranges

Old School Grand Master
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This is the first instalment of a potential solution to a problem.

I picked up a very high end carbon FS frame for Not Very Much - an object which had been much neglected, was missing large amounts of hardware and needed a new rear suspension element. I have overhauled our existing frames and repaired them many times so this one seemed like A Good Idea.

Carefully does it, I review all threads, order new parts and bearings.

In pressing out main pivot bearings I can see that one of them is loose in the housing. Yep, it’s very notchy. And it’s an oxide coating MAX 6903. The oxide ones are a pain. If the bearing gets notchy, the lack of any surface corrosion on the bearing means it can really easily slip in the housing. This one has done exactly that, and there’s 1mm of slop. Drat.

So….different solutions:

1
Whack a load of peen holes in the bearing housing so that the inner surface is raised and gets a new interference fit.
Downside: whacking the housing with a pointy punch wil transfer huge amounts of energy to the carbon - which can cause micro cracking in the surrounding carbon.

2
Use 603 Loctite to hold new bearing in. Will need to use activator.
Downside: good for gaps up to 0.5mm and this is more.

3
Use 660 Loctite to hold bearings in. Will need activator.
Downside: good for larger gaps. Almost certainly will hold bearing In. Will almost certainly mean that bearing can NEVER be pressed out.

4
Ream housing and use tolerance ring.
Downside: haven’t got big enough bit and can’t find 30x7 tolerance ring anywhere amongst suppliers.

5
Use coke can or baked bean can as shim material
Downside: will almost certainly cut my fingers when I do it and it probably won’t hold

More as I begin to dive in with gloves on….
And all advice welcome….
 
Disclaimer - haven't tried it, no idea if it will work, and it's up to you! But from the options you have, it seems like the only reasonable option?
 
This is the first instalment of a potential solution to a problem.

I picked up a very high end carbon FS frame for Not Very Much - an object which had been much neglected, was missing large amounts of hardware and needed a new rear suspension element. I have overhauled our existing frames and repaired them many times so this one seemed like A Good Idea.

Carefully does it, I review all threads, order new parts and bearings.

In pressing out main pivot bearings I can see that one of them is loose in the housing. Yep, it’s very notchy. And it’s an oxide coating MAX 6903. The oxide ones are a pain. If the bearing gets notchy, the lack of any surface corrosion on the bearing means it can really easily slip in the housing. This one has done exactly that, and there’s 1mm of slop. Drat.

So….different solutions:

1
Whack a load of peen holes in the bearing housing so that the inner surface is raised and gets a new interference fit.
Downside: whacking the housing with a pointy punch wil transfer huge amounts of energy to the carbon - which can cause micro cracking in the surrounding carbon.

2
Use 603 Loctite to hold new bearing in. Will need to use activator.
Downside: good for gaps up to 0.5mm and this is more.

3
Use 660 Loctite to hold bearings in. Will need activator.
Downside: good for larger gaps. Almost certainly will hold bearing In. Will almost certainly mean that bearing can NEVER be pressed out.

4
Ream housing and use tolerance ring.
Downside: haven’t got big enough bit and can’t find 30x7 tolerance ring anywhere amongst suppliers.

5
Use coke can or baked bean can as shim material
Downside: will almost certainly cut my fingers when I do it and it probably won’t hold

More as I begin to dive in with gloves on….
And all advice welcome….
Your carbon frame is mostly epoxy right?
You've got a big gap to fill...
Try araldite.

Truth be told, if it doesn't work you can probably knock it out.
You could even put a tiny smear of lubricant onto the housing to modify the grip.

Then again, at +1mm you might be able to get a bearing...
 
Is there not a bearing that will fit snuggly in the hole?

If not, I'd go with a shim. Nothing to loose really, though if it's not tight it will creak like an old door.
 
shim and 603. buy proper shim stock. the hole isn't going to be round, it will obviously be better if you can find a machine shop willing to work on CF to machine it round and oversize, but 603 will take up a fair amount of slack.
 
Update on saving 4,000gbp carbon FS frame acquired from a person who knows how to neglect things.

So....main bearing housing which has had a bearing rotating in it for goodness know how long.
Novocaine you are perfectly right - the bearing seat indeed is no longer round.

Try number one...
Bought a tolerance ring 24x7 which can be opened to fit 30mm housing.
Fashioned it to fit
Inserted and used bearing press
Too tight
Out it all comes
Possibilities: reduce length of tolerance ring until get a good fit. Downside, only a few points of contact between bearing and housing. Bodge. Do not like it. This is a high load bearing - low movement, high impact. Move on.

Try number two...
Park CR-1 which is Loctite 680 in disguise
Gap-filling and retaining, but does allow removal
I have Bondloc 660 available but that will be for try 3 if needed - 660 will retain bearing, forever.
Will not be able to use recommended removal approach - heat with gas torch - since it's a carbon frame
With activator CR-1 can fill larger gap than spec - good.
Prep'd housing with brake cleaner
Can see bare metal and so iron ions available for cure but will use activator
Have Bondloc activator B7455 CYANOACRYLATE ACTIVATOR to hand
Mask off frame around housing
Get all pullers available and ready to ensure bearing alignment
Find correct bearings - phew I put them in the 'carbon TS frame parts' box
I am going to work in the sun so everything is nice and hot - housing and bearing
Get ready go
Half insert old bearing on opposite side for alignment using bearing drifts
Spray activator into bearing housing
Spray cottonwool bud with a few drops of activator and coat exterior race of bearing
Wait to dry - around 60 seconds
Apply thick bead of CR-1 in housing including lip
Apply thin bead of CR-1 to bearing
Press in with fingers - yes it's that loose
I have less than five minutes
Quickly insert bearing drifts and puller - all nicely aligned
Wait 10 mins
Gently extract drifts
wipe excess
72 hours to achieve full strength

Prep time 45 mins
Job time - 15 mins

Think that's done.
Now the full build and use in anger
That's the time we will know that it worked
 
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