Single speed conversion 92 Specialized Rockhopper

[Bicycle Addict]

Hey guys I have a 92 Rockhopper, that was given to me with the condiion that if I wanted it gone that it was gifted to someone else.
A mate was given this bike by a customer because he did not want to fix it, then my mate gave it to one of his mates, who in turn gave it to a mate of his, it came up for give away again and I took it.
All of the other guys had meant to turn it into a single speed because of it semi horizontal drop outs, so I thought it only fitting that I actually do a SS conversion, first one on a MTB.

So . . . I have some cranks , figure it best to use road cranks for the fouling caused by lower chain ring mounts on chain stay.

Square taper:
Exage Road
105 Retro (on there now with a 115mm BB)
Double ring on road cranks as apposed to triple means no lower chain ring mount fouling)

Deore 5 arm
Deore 4 arm
XT 5 arm

Splined:
Deore
Tiagra
FSA (Road)

The 1050 5 arm 130 pcd cranks on there at the moment are about 1 - 1.5mm away from non drive side stay.
The chain line will need the rear cog spaced towards the drop out end of freehub body rather than the middle as most of the road conversions I have done.

Question's,
1) Does it matter about being that close to the stay on the non drive side?

2) Who makes cheapish steel 38 tooth 4 arm cranks model FC-M510?

Suggestions on which you think welcomed.

I will pic where I am up to tomorrow
Thanks

 

[hamster]

Re:

I have never encountered the problem of inner ring bosses contacting the frame. Usually the bottom bracket in the frame protrudes far enough. I suspect that a 1.5mm clearance will result in clipping when out of the saddle from frame and crank flex. MTB cranks should work fine, although usually the middle chainring position is used for a decent chainline.

 

[thel33ter]

Re:

Not sure if I'm missing something here, but how does it being SS or not affect the inner ring bosses position? If the cranks will fit on geared, they will fit even more easily without the granny ring surely? 1.5mm clearance is fine, you're unlikely to get anywhere near that much purely horizontal deflection, alternatively a longer axle BB could be used.

As for the chainring, I'd go for a really modern narrow-wide chainring, they're a bit pricy but work beautifully. http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/i ... -style.htm

 

[thel33ter]

I didn't see that you're in NZ, but I assume you can get a similar kinda chain ring out there. Need to get myself back there one of these days, I've heard many good things about the riding there.

 

[Bicycle Addict]

Re:

So. . . I put a 113 mm BB in and got lower chain ring mount rub on the chain stay (with the early LX cranks I wanted to use), as I went too skinny, got a 115 mm BB in there now with the original cranks as the early 105 cranks I had on were way too close to the non drive side stay as listed above. I have gone for a skinnier BB as the original would not have worked for a very nice chain line even with the cog to its most outer placing.
I have put the original cranks back on, and set it up with the original middle ring on as a single, while I wait for the Surly Stainless I have ordered to go with the Surly cassette cog that I already have.
I have some Exage cranks coming that will hopefully fit better than the 105, I want to use twin ring cranks just because it will look tidier to me(OCD I know)

I am going with STX RC Canti/V-brake things? STX levers, orignal 32 spoke Specailized Rims/Hub combo, to be possibly replaced with a 36 hole rear, I will first replace all nipples on rear wheel to help hold tension under my mass!?