Show us your disc modded retro

Did a little looking around, I doubt it would flex all that much, aluminum frame View attachment 857398
PS I would literally fight someone for one of those Heavy Duti frames
No, not the frame. I'm referring to the clamp itself having massive gaps, in a similar way that a coaster brake clamp, if not sufficiently clamped against the chainstay, will flex. And this, presumably being an alu a2z style clamp on disc adapter, I'd want it to be tighter. Surely that'll stress it to no end. I have no doubts that the frame will handle it, I was more thinking the entire assembly would snap eventually with heavy braking.
 
As with most others, the front is easy.
It’s the rear that is tough.
I did this back in 1998 or thereabouts.
Was going to remove the bracket and trim it down but never got around to it. It is still on the bike to this day and works great.
 

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As with most others, the front is easy.
It’s the rear that is tough.
I did this back in 1998 or thereabouts.
Was going to remove the bracket and trim it down but never got around to it. It is still on the bike to this day and works great.
What a beautiful bike!! I like the rear caliper mount, a very solid design looks great as it is. I wouldn’t have trimmed it down either.
 
Here's my Hope bolt-on conversion from the late 90's.

The bike is currently undergoing a refresh, only half the caliper is there at the moment as I'm rebuilding the brakes but as I wanted to get the rear wheel built up and trued first I needed this much of the caliper so I could mount the axle in the frame.
HopeBrake.jpg
 
I use this adapter to create an amazing zero flex disc brake on rear. I'm a 200lb guy and fairly hard on my brakes... I can stop on a dime. Highly recommended
View attachment 857689
Is that the proper a2z one? Not really anything wrong with it, I think they do work pretty well but the issue is that they're best suited for flat dropouts and so not great for most steel bikes. I still think the ones attaching to the canti studs to spread the load seems the absolute best short of getting disc tabs welded. I've seen these around so good to know they're holding up to a clydesdale.
 
Is that the proper a2z one? Not really anything wrong with it, I think they do work pretty well but the issue is that they're best suited for flat dropouts and so not great for most steel bikes. I still think the ones attaching to the canti studs to spread the load seems the absolute best short of getting disc tabs welded. I've seen these around so good to know they're holding up to a clydesdale.
Just a thought before you start welding bikes, if the frame is heat treated then you will be affecting the strength of the frame by welding tabs onto it.

I can weld aluminium but chose a bolt-on conversion rather than having to get my frame re-heat treated. I'd have less of an issue with welding a steel frame unless it's some ultra lightweight exotic with treated tubing.
 
Just a thought before you start welding bikes, if the frame is heat treated then you will be affecting the strength of the frame by welding tabs onto it.

I can weld aluminium but chose a bolt-on conversion rather than having to get my frame re-heat treated. I'd have less of an issue with welding a steel frame unless it's some ultra lightweight exotic with treated tubing.
I was referring to steel frames in this case. I don't ride aluminium really, I've just bought my first alu frame in over 10 years, I've always been very apprehensive about fixed alu, even if heat treated again. 7005 is supposedly more forgiving but I don't know. For alu with flat dropouts like that a bolt on type seems perfectly sensible. I just imagine it wouldn't sit quite as well on a fat steel dropout.
 
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