Servicing Regina Freewheel

[FINNEY1973]

Specifically a 6 speed BX. Cosmetically good, internally it's horrendous. How do you free the sprockets from the spindle? There's two pin holes on the top but a standard pin spanner doesn't fit or engage the holes properly.

Cheers...

 

[Midlife]

The sprockets come off the body using chain whips but that won't do anything about the noises. To undo the freewheel innards you tap the locking ring clockwise with a hammer and punch unscrew then the two parts of the body separate with a shed load of ball bearings and pawls / springs!

Will it flush and oil up OK? Easier than taking apart and putting it back together (I was taught to use a ring of cotton to keep the pawls in place and pull out)

Shaun

 

[FINNEY1973]

Sounds like pandoras' box! If I can fill it up with oil then that's the way i'll do it - just spray a load and hope it seeps in sufficiently?

At the moment I don't think there is any nice lubricant and it feels as though some of the bearings are bunched together and it's lumpy / notchy.

 

[Midlife]

There's a load of empty space inside so it's not really a matter of seeping more flushing. Parrafin, petrol, diesel, WD 40 or similar to flush and dissolve any sticky stuff while spinning and then some oil. They are not too difficult to take apart and put together again just fiddly. Is it on a bike? On a bike stand with spinning the rear wheel is splattery but easier than by hand.

Shaun

 

[FINNEY1973]

it's half worked, it's spins quite nicely now after a dose of fluids. Not as good as it could be but it's a good start. I'll do it again tonight

 

[Little Al]

Sounds like pandoras' box! If I can fill it up with oil then that's the way i'll do it - just spray a load and hope it seeps in sufficiently?

At the moment I don't think there is any nice lubricant and it feels as though some of the bearings are bunched together and it's lumpy / notchy.

Place the complete freewheel in a can & completely cover with Diesel & leave overnight. Take out & drain when most diesel has drained away spin up to check the smooth or otherwise running The longest lasting lube I've come across is Chainsaw bar & chain lube. I pour a small amount into the locking ring & keep topping up with an occasional spin until the lube seeps from inboard side of the body If the noise is still evident it's either a strip or binning & replacement.

 

[FINNEY1973]

I've left it almost 24 hours soaked in generic oil and it has worked very well. now spins smoothly and the ratchet noise has been drastically reduced. However, it is untried as to whether this will provide a reasonably long term solution based on the generic oil i've used. If it regresses back to how it was then i'll go with the suggested diesel / chainsaw oil :shock: suggestion.

Thanks muchly.

 

[keithglos]

Re:

Our main enemy with these was water getting in and rusting.
2 flag pawls and 2 lines of 1/8 inch balls in my day. Easy to slip back in without any need for cotton. I did have some ground down Terry tool clips but didn't need them for these. Handy for the 3 pawl Cyclo freewheel though. Remember to set the shims when reassembling. Used to renew the pawl springs with a strand of suitable old brake cable wire.

Keith

 

[Little Al]

I've left it almost 24 hours soaked in generic oil and it has worked very well. now spins smoothly and the ratchet noise has been drastically reduced. However, it is untried as to whether this will provide a reasonably long term solution based on the generic oil i've used. If it regresses back to how it was then i'll go with the suggested diesel / chainsaw oil :shock: suggestion.

Thanks muchly.

If it reverts to not running smooth either trap the wheel so it lays horizontal &fill around the locking ring of the block with oil or do the same if the block is off the wheel, the reason I found Chainsaw bar oil stays put is it contains a tacifier to enable it not get flung off to easily as the chain spins, you don't need the expensive stuff, the generic brands work just as well, over here it's in the region of 2 Euro's a litre & that should last you years we used to use less than that for a whole pro team a season most was used in the early classics & Paris/Roubaix to keep the water & s**t out.the cassette is a different set up but can be treated with the same treatment of oiling