Seized screw in GT 2x4 forks, advice requested.

[Black_puma]

So I recently bought a 1991 GT Zaskar frame and GT 2x4 rigid forks as my next project, yay!
However, the forks are in need of a paint job/powder coat so I attempted to remove the screws that are fitted to these forks to allow for different front wheel positions (Short-lived idea and only ran for two years in one form or another).
I have two GT bikes with both versions of these forks. 2x4 in 1991 on my GT Avalanche and 3D in 1992 on my GT Bravado.
This aside, the issue I have is that one of the screws came out quite easy, yet the second screw is seized!
Also, the seized screw has broken off near the exit point at the back of the drop out.
So, obviously I would like to have this screw removed before it is to be repainted/powder coated and preferably without any harm done to this poor GT fork!
I would really appreciate any advice that our lovely members here could give me on this predicament.
Thank you in advance!

 

[Gtpulse]

Sorry I can’t add any advice other than observe that it’s very similar to a seized/broken dropout adjustment screw on a road bike. Could be worth a search for that as it’s a not uncommon problem on retro/classic road bikes.

 

[henrysthreeironbands]

a regular hardware store should have everything you need.

I would possibly :
1. punch a dent in the center of the screw
2. drill with superthin titanium nitride drillbit
3. miniature / small screw extractor https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor

 

[bikeworkshop]

These thin screws with a long insertion can be impossible to remove without something costly like spark erosion.

You don't need them anyway - they are just for rapid alignment in a racing wheel- swap situation.
The wheel is actually held in place by the qr, and can be aligned by eye.

You might end up filing it smooth and leaving the residue in there, if you can't get it out.

 

[Lhatch4]

Carefully drill out the screw and re-tap the threads.

 

[bikeworkshop]

The screw is usually hardened m3.
Often there's a much as 10mm length in the dropout.
Let us know if you manage to drill it out.

 

[novocaine]

@dablk look familiar?

Care to wade in with your fix?

As I have the tools, I'd make an aluminium guard (cut up beer can with a hole slightly smaller than the screw). Drill a similar hole in a bit of flat bar steel. Put the beer can over the screw, then the flat bar with the holes lined up. Plug weld the flat bar to the screw. Then back it out, slowly using the flat bar as a handle. Hear from the weld will help and obviously lots of penetrative oil before hand.

If I don't have the tools, it's drilling, but good luck unless you have a piller drill. That ain't gonna be fun.

 

[Black_puma]

So, from what I have read here so far, I'd have to invest in some tool to get this job done, could anyone recommend a brand/type of tool that would be up the job as I don't want to waste too much time or money as I don't want to get the forks damaged by inferior tools. These GT 2x4 forks are hard enough to find so I don't want to lose them!

 

[Spankyfart]

Drill through and insert a helicoil if you care about the thread.
Personally I'd not be bothered by it and do as bikeworkshop said.

 

[Gtpulse]

I’ve tried and failed on a road bike drop out which is why I can’t offer any advice on what to do.
As @bikeworkshop said these are hardened and tiny in diameter. To get it centre punched, a drill bit both small and strong enough to get through it as well as an operator with a steady enough hand/eye you’ll be doing really well! I’m sure there are engineer type bods on here with the skill/tools but I personally found my limit when I tried similar so would either leave alone or get someone who has the tools/skill to do it. I’d want to be able to clamp it steady under a pillar drill to stand a chance if I tried it again which is no mean feat with stuff that shape/size/fragility.