Seatpost for a steerer tube

DO NOT USE a seatpost for a steerer!!!.
Steerers take a hell of a lot more hammer than a seatpost and are [mostly] made to take the treatment.
Use a dedicated steerer tube with the correct retaining circlip all designed for the job; even if it is a plain gauge tube like a Pace steerer it has specifically been designed[material, heat treatment etc] for the job in question.
DO NOT scrimp on the steerer tube it is the most important component on your bike as regards face/ground contact :wink:
 
Kaiser,

I have a 1" steerer tube for a balistic suspension fork, quite long and thus if the thread does not reach it could be used for an AHead. The steerer might work as the balistic looks like a copy of a Manitou from yesteryear.
I'll bring it along to the TT.

Velomaniac
 
Cheers all for the input, I think I'll consign the seatpost idea to the bin :roll: Velo I've pm'd ya :) I'll keep a lookout for some 1" forks with a suitably long steerer to butcher though I'm loathe to do it. Could purchase new but its taking the price of the forks into not worth it territory.
 
I got a 1" steerer for Marzocchi forks from UK Bike Store last year. It cost me £18. Being for Marz forks it came with an alloy shim thing at the bottom to fit it into a 1-1/8" Crown. I think the Pace steerer is as you describe with a circlip thing - maybe justbackdated could help you?

I have a scar just above my knee from where a steerer tube snapped and the jagged edge dug into my leg... absolutely not worth the risk. I was very lucky it happened when I popped a small wheelie over a root on a climb... had it happened on the tricky descent I had just finished before... I dread to think. :shock: This event made me think very hard about where I am happy to use old components, and which ones I am willing to use. Hence me now running Bombers on the Lloyd rather than RC35's - but I have a long history of breaking things 8)
 
i've just returned form my local cnc workshop where ,one of the lads is making me the replacment parts for my amp f4 blt[im missing a spring ,the springs preload collars [x2] and the top shock pivot] although only 1 side needed parts ,he wants to replace all the parts on both sides,beef them up a little ,more alloy at stress points etc + it keeps them matching and all for only £50
All you amp lovers get in touch,as the pivot points are no longer available ,what amp does have these days isnt a great fit ,there were some small differences and although they will fit onto your old fork the incorrect fit may cause damage[that is what i think happened to mine ]1 incorrectly fitting part an you could cause irreversible damage
Why is this in a steerer thread i hear u ask,a little patience and I'll tell all-
i did mention that i had another amp fork[this time a mongoose]in perfect nick but the steerer was too short by about 100mm[4 inches in old money],and could he swop them to give me i working fork,if the cnc'ing was too pricey,he didnt like that idea and was worried the crown would crack if we forced it in,so he suggested making it longer.
I told him that you cant extend a steerertube if its too short ,it must be replaced,
he gave me that [i'm an engineer of twenty years man and boy]look with a little mirth thrown in for good measure ,then suggested four ways he could do it
I'm picking up the parts in a fortnight so ill take him the mongoose then and see what he says
But i think this is promising
I will of course post the results
all i need now is two 350lb springs :roll:
 
Just an update on this, telephoned ceeway and got a very helpful chap. Sent me a butted steerer tube 320mm long for under a tenner. Top work fellah, very fast service too.
 

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