Saracen Tufftrax Elite 1993

Nick Martin

Retro Newbie
This has been resurrected from the shed, but a few issues;
The Max Drive Cromoloy suspension forks have no supensiin anymore- would anyone have details of the original elastomer configuration.
I’ve out some new tyres on but I just cannot get the bead to seat evenly around the rim. Any suggestions- I’ve done all I can think of- it is as thought the tyre bead circumference is just too small to seat in the correct place on the rim.
Any help much appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • D4DAF4E2-62CE-49E2-ACF6-61B89871D060.webp
    D4DAF4E2-62CE-49E2-ACF6-61B89871D060.webp
    195.9 KB · Views: 348
Have you tried a mildly soapy solution to get the bead to set in place? If not, try it.

It looks like you’ve got the original Wienmann rims, there were always a little awkward the set a Tyre on.

Those forks were bad at best, even bitd, just strip them and see what the state of play is.
 
Re:

Re the bead not seating. It looks on the photos like it originates around the valve stem area. I’ve had this happen before to the extent that the tyre bulges out from this area.
What I do when sorting it out is as follows - deflate the inner tube, undo the valve retaining ring completely, push the valve up in to the tyre, you kind of feel it break through the bead area, inflate the tube partially and ensure you have the bead seated evenly now, inflate to your required pressure then do the retaining ring up again. I think some tyres the tube pushes up the bead if the tube isn’t fully up into the tyre around the valve area.
 
Re:

Thanks people, I have tried all of those unfortunately, talcing, soaping, centring the bead in the rim, pushing the valve in and seating that section 1st. I can only get about 80% one side and then the other is not as good, and this is not just on one tyre it’s both.
Is this because the tyre is designated 26 x 2.1 (559) rather than a sticker on the rim that says 26 x 1.5 (559)
The 2.1 is a direct replacement for the original on the bike.
 

Attachments

  • 65E76DA1-5156-4924-8A74-1EFC6E492F3C.webp
    65E76DA1-5156-4924-8A74-1EFC6E492F3C.webp
    72.1 KB · Views: 297
  • 12CB5EBA-A9E6-4697-9E09-90F3DF8E61AB.webp
    12CB5EBA-A9E6-4697-9E09-90F3DF8E61AB.webp
    73 KB · Views: 297
  • F36A5AA7-3033-4CA9-9C60-EDFE44862DF5.webp
    F36A5AA7-3033-4CA9-9C60-EDFE44862DF5.webp
    138.5 KB · Views: 297
Break them off the bead, make sure the tube is nicely in the tyre, little bit of soapy water round the bead, then use a compressor and keep going till they pop onto the bead. Usually 60 psi will be enough but you can go higher. Once stretched they will seat much easier next time.
 
Do what gtpulse says however with around 15psi in the tyre hold the wheel up in front of you by the tyre sidewall with hands in 3 and 9 O’clock position and flex the tyre by twisting your wrists towards and then away from you whilst passing the wheel clockwise through your hands with tiny clockwise throes. Do a good 3-4 rotations of the wheel doing this (with any valve guide washer loose). Then Inflate and spin via axle to visually check if it’s centred and that no part of the bead is kicking out
I find this works every time for me but it’s all in the gentle chucking of the wheel and flicking of the wrists.

All this method does is centralise the inner diameter of the bead into the rim without it being tucked down in one place.

Maybe I’m wierd tho haha....

Nice looking bike.... I love this period Saracen and miss my Kili.

More pics please when fettled...
 
Well, took the tyres off completely, found some old Roxtec cable gland lubricant stick and rubbed that on, reseated using suggestions as above then pumped them up to 65-70psi (as much as I could with my hand pump) and got them out to a better proposition for riding
Cheers
 
Back
Top