Rust - removing it and then preventing it

[flimflam_machine]

Right, my recently inherited Raleigh Royal has become my main commuter and as such has to spend the occasional day outside in the rain (apologies, but I'd rather use it than just admire it). When I got it, it had a few surface rust spots on the frame (painted) and forks (chromed) and I don't want these to become any worse.

So what's a decent quickish process for removing rust and then protecting against further corrosion? I know someone posted a long and complicated method by which they had renovated some chrome BMX forks but I'm a bit too time-poor for that. So my best guess is Autosol for the chrome and T-Cut for the paintwork followed by some sort of clear lacquer. Any alternatives and can anyone recommend a specific lacquer?

 

[Johnsqual]

Hello,

I am sure others have their own techniques, but here are my suggestions.

1) Autosol may be a bit too abrasive for chrome. There are long arguments about polishing chrome, but the short version is that chrome is a very thin layer and you risk polishing through to the nickel base layer if you use something too harsh.
I found Turtle Wax chrome polish which seems to have the same chemical base as Autosol but is thinner and less abrasive.

2) I used Hammerite rust converter for rust on frames, but I bought it in Belgium and I don't know if it's available in the UK. It's a thin liquid that turns the rust into a blue-black layer you can then paint over. Maybe Kurust is the same thing, but I'm not sure.

3) For protection, maybe car wax is best. It forms a protective layer but isn't permanent so you don't have to worry if it goes wrong.

Hope that's helpful.

Johnny

 

[Robbied196]

It would be good to see some photo's, but I'm guessing you have the kind of small spots that stain the paint or chrome and look worse than they actually are?

I've done a lot of renovations but the quickest and simplest way is to get some Liberon 0000 grade steel wool. This is good quality and doesn't break down like cheap steel wool, also the 0000 grade is very soft. get a good lump dipped in clean engine oil and softly rub the affected areas. It will remove all the rust haze from the paint and the chrome. Follow this with a good T.Cut.

Then you have 2 choices, you can either wax your frame with something good like Autoglym, or, if you can find a nail varnish to match the colour this makes a very good seal.

 

[hamster]

The rust converter is called Trustan or Kurust in the UK.

I use a car touch up kit to repair small chips in the paint. Chrome always rusts through as it is porous. Waxing it is about the best way to keep water away.

 

[bikenut2010]

don't laugh, cooking foil and vinegar... try it on something bad first! I'll post some pics of before and after old chrome rims...

 

[Midlife]

Going to try aluminium foil and acid on my Falcon chrome forks...not been touched in over 30 years.

The aluminium is more reactive than iron and should displace it from the rust giving rise to metallic iron and aluminium oxide. Well that's the theory as I read it

Shaun

 

[bikenut2010]

before and after

OK, pair of severely kak pedals, i used just silver paper and malt vinegar, then washed off with soapy water and dried...then a lights wipe with 3 in 1;
by no means perfect but a restoration is a sum of the parts; you either work with what you have and accept the limitations or buy new stuff...