Retro road - what am I missing?

[daugs]

Re: Re:

I can't see why you wouldn't want to use indexed gears though unless you enjoy the sound of a rattling chain or the feeling of fishing for gears as you filter in traffic

Seriously though, I do get the appeal of the downtube lever - it is a more engaging way to cycle as you have to plan you gears before a climb. Plus brake levers without STI are just more elegant. I wouldn't say they're "better" though.

+1

I remember in 1992 getting my Marin Eldridge, with XT shifters, first new new bike in 20 years as my Carlton from my teens had been second hand, and being amazed at how 1990s technology had moved on in the gear selection department, I moved from gears on my Carlton in the early 80s to a fixed in 1986 when needed a new rear wheel and got one built with flip-flop hub, and hadn't ridden a bike with "full range" of gears in 5 years.

 

[NeilM]

This thread has some interesting reading. Now that my job situation has stabilised, I can think about dipping into retro road. Modern bikes leave me feeling cold, but I also fear retro road is usually a bit over priced compared to the goodies one can get in the retro MTB scene. So I'd love to get some advice about where to start. At 6 foot 4 I guess I'l be needing a 30 inch frame, though.

Retromod is the way to go.

Most of my riding so far this winter has been on a 1980's Keith Coppell frame fitted with modern SRAM 10 speed running gear. Great feel of a 531 frame and forks, easy to use modern indexed gears.

By contrasts I spent some time this summer using downtube friction shifters... interesting they are, relaxing they are not, at least, not if you have never used them before.

As for prices of parts mtb to road, there are no differences as long as you compare like for like. Look at Shimano 105 and you will see good prices, look at Dura Ace and it's pricey same as STX compared to XTR. That said, I will concede that brake lever / shifters do have a price tag, but they are worth it.

 

[legrandefromage]

Old steel frames with the shiny end of modern-ish components make for great rides.

 

[cce]

Old steel frames with the shiny end of modern-ish components make for great rides.

early 90s ribble 653 frame with 10 speed campag here. Can confirm.

 

[Wold Ranger]

Re:

Friction shifters are fine if you stick with 5/6 speed or possibly 7, but any more and the gaps between the cogs are too close and it's difficult to shift accurately. Of course 5/6 either means limited ratio spreads or big gaps. Putting a triple on the front opens up a lot of options, but adds a bit of weight. A lot of enthusiasts are putting 10/11 on classic steel frames though now, which adds a hat load of flexibility and saves a kilo or two of Lardyness off the bike.

 

[ultrazenith]

This thread has some interesting reading. Now that my job situation has stabilised, I can think about dipping into retro road. Modern bikes leave me feeling cold, but I also fear retro road is usually a bit over priced compared to the goodies one can get in the retro MTB scene. So I'd love to get some advice about where to start. At 6 foot 4 I guess I'l be needing a 30 inch frame, though.

Retromod is the way to go.

Most of my riding so far this winter has been on a 1980's Keith Coppell frame fitted with modern SRAM 10 speed running gear. Great feel of a 531 frame and forks, easy to use modern indexed gears.

By contrasts I spent some time this summer using downtube friction shifters... interesting they are, relaxing they are not, at least, not if you have never used them before.

As for prices of parts mtb to road, there are no differences as long as you compare like for like. Look at Shimano 105 and you will see good prices, look at Dura Ace and it's pricey same as STX compared to XTR. That said, I will concede that brake lever / shifters do have a price tag, but they are worth it.

This sounds really interesting. How much would you say it costs to own a retromod steel with 105?

 

[NeilM]

This sounds really interesting. How much would you say it costs to own a retromod steel with 105?

Hand made 531 frame and forks abound at something like £200, although I did get a Rourke in 653 last for £57, so there are always bargains.

Merlin are currently doing 11 speed NEW 105 chainset for £300, so s/h and with a bit of searching you should be able to do a lot better. Incidentally, you can intermix and use the old 600 tricolor cranks, f&R mechs and modern shifters, that is what I did with my original 853 Raleigh and managed to get it working well with 10 speed shifters and cassette.

Wheels, the more they cost the lighter they are and as with MTB's Mavic make some good wheels that are not too heavy, also Superstars have their own wheels which are cheap, or there are hundreds of pairs of wheels on ebay. Again Shimano 600 tricolor hubs on Mavic Open Pro rims is what I used (and still have), and they are plentiful, strong and cheap.

LGF is the Grand Master at super builds for no money, but I reckon £350 plus or minus should see you with a half decent steel build.

I will now put my fireproof undies on and prepare myself for a flaming.

 

[ultrazenith]

Thanks Neil for the details

 

[The History Man]

The overburys I posted was picked up for £180 as a well used but sound 25" handbuilt 531 tourer. Something along those lines would suit you. It cost another £50ish and a good few hours to get it to where it is now so neil is about right. Plenty out there but not many as rare or in the larger sizes.

You really should try one. Nothing to lose as they hold their value.

 

[legrandefromage]

Brrrr-aaaand new this was £349 (reduced from £500) including a rather natty multi tool and Haribo Sourz...

Now, the reason why I bought it was that the Raleigh in the next picture would have cost similar to rebuild as it needed a lot of parts replacing. The wheels were 27" making new part sizing a little awkward and there were no downtube braze-ons for shifters or guides. Minor but once pricing taken into account, the Bobbin was a bobbin bargain.