Retro racer/touring sizes

[Spokeydokey]

I'm in the market for an older steel road bike or tourer to see me through my winter commute and possibly for an audax or light tourer next year when the weather improves. This forum has been a goldmine with some really knowledgeable people and has been invaluable so far.

One thing I can't figure out is the frame sizes of older bikes. I'm not particularly small, being a shade under 6' with a 33" inside leg but the frame sizes of a lot of the bikes I see on Ebay and elsewhere the older bikes seem enormous.

My current commuter (Trek 1.2) is a compact bike with an effective top tube length of 56cm which is about as large as I can comfortably ride. I also have a 22" Dawes 201 with a 59cm top tube length which is just too big and gives me backache so will shortly be headed for the parts bin.

However looking at some of the older tourers like the Dawes Galaxy and Raleigh Randonneur the frame sizes seem to be enormous. A lot are 23 inches or more but sellers have assured me that they're only 5'9 or 5'10 etc and can ride them no problems.

Are there significant differences between the sizing of newer road bikes and the older ones (I know they don't have sloping top tubes etc)? I feel like I've missed something but the frame sizes just seem a lot bigger on a lot of ads for the older bikes.

 

[Markone]

The guide on the bottom of the page via this link may help,

http://myvintagebikes.com/bike-sizing/

 

[RubberLegs]

I'm the same size as you and 22" or 23" is about right for me height wise, but invariably too long and I get shoulder pain after 25 miles or so. Always thought I must have short arms. What I do is shove the saddle as far forward as possible and if that doesn't work or feels wrong then I fit a shorter reach stem - makes a big difference. Might be worth trying on your Dawes rather than parts binning it.

 

[Spokeydokey]

I'm the same size as you and 22" or 23" is about right for me height wise, but invariably too long and I get shoulder pain after 25 miles or so. Always thought I must have short arms. What I do is shove the saddle as far forward as possible and if that doesn't work or feels wrong then I fit a shorter reach stem - makes a big difference. Might be worth trying on your Dawes rather than parts binning it.

I've tried everything on my Dawes including switching to butterfly bars, shortening the stem and moving the saddle but there's no escaping the fact that the reach is just too much for me by about 2 inches. It's only a hybrid that I use for winter commuting and shopping runs but I've spent more than the value of the bike on physio for my upper back injury that the bike aggravates so I'll either flog the bike or keep it for parts. Think I may be like you and have quite short arms.

 

[Spokeydokey]

The guide on the bottom of the page via this link may help,

http://myvintagebikes.com/bike-sizing/

Thanks for that, really helpful. The frame sizes and rider height recommendations do seem different to those for modern bikes. I'll have to try a few and see how I get on.

 

[hamster]

Bottom brackets in particular were somewhat lower in the past - US product liability lawyers made stock frames have less risk of pedal strike. People also sized frames for a position with little seatpost sticking out. Top tube length is the best guide.

 

[mikeymustard]

I'm only 5' 10" with a 32" leg and I tend to go for 23.5 for preference; I also currently have a 22.5" and what feels like a 24.5 though I've never actually measured it, I just feel kind of high up on it! Incidentally, the chap I bought it off was definitely no taller than me and had cycled all round Europe on it

 

[mattsccm]

35 years ago or so we sized according to inside leg. 10" less that the crutch to floor was a starting point. The top tube often depended on the bike eg I have 2 with 56cm TT. One is 40mm less up the seat tube than the other. Both 531c Raleighs. The bigger once is more comfortable for me now although the smaller one was a special order through college with all measurements supplied and everyone's did match their body size.
Thing is the big one means that there is less drop from the top of the seat to the TT and thus to the bars. Same length but less drop.