Replacement chainring for Raleigh Record sprint reynolds 501

[MistyCold]

Hey, I'm looking for an original or new old stock chainring and crank arm for Raleigh Record sprint. Does anyone know what the original make was or where I can find a replacement?

The current one on the bike is a Sakae GXC 52T, I believe not 100% sure since the lettering has faded significantly.

 

[hamster]

Looks original to me, with the SR (Sakae Rinkyo) cranks.

 

[MistyCold]

Do you know where I could buy a replacement? I forgot to mention the chain keeps slipping as the teeth are worn on the current one. Cheers hamster for the help.

 

[hamster]

Those teeth don't look at all worn to me. Are you sure it isn't slipping on the rear, which usually wears far faster? Hint: bet it slips in some gears but not others. Also, have you checked the chain for wear?

Any 130mm PCD chain ring will fit. Try Stronglight from Spa Cycles.

 

[MistyCold]

Re:

The chain doesn't slip off the chainring. What's actually happening is the chainring- crankarm-peddles 'system' occasionally goes into free fall for a split second when I'm peddling in higher gears (mostly uphill). This causes a moment when it feels like my feet are jolted forwards causing me to feel like I'm falling.

I've had a look around and people have said it could be the cassette or chain (but both have been replaced recently) and the problem is still persistent. The only thing that I haven't replaced recently is the chainring system and derailleur(s).

Do you know what could be causing my peddles to lose traction for a second then re-engage?

Thanks for the help!

This person seems to have had the same issue:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... is-causing

 

[hamster]

It feels like the whole drive has lost grip for a fraction of a second and the pedals jump forward about 1/8th of a revolution? That's the chain skipping on the back. Fitting a new chain usually is the start of the problem.
Under heavy load, the new chain (which is unworn and shorter) doesn't sit on the worn sprocket teeth at the back - then it skips forward and settles. It feels HORRIBLE. It's amazing how much pin wear in the chain adds up - an old chain can easily be 2-3 cm longer than a new one.

You need a new cassette or freewheel on the back. Sorry.

 

[MistyCold]

Thanks for the help hamster!! That sounds about right, with the pedals jump forward about 1/8th of a revolution.

What should I do if I've already replaced the cassette, chain and rear-wheel recently (i.e. 2 months ago), yet the problem persists?

This bike is a nightmare.... I've already replaced the brake callipers, brake levers, new cables, new wheels, new cassette, new chain (less than 2 months ago). The only things I haven't replaced are the chainring, crank arm and derailers.

Thanks once again.

 

[pigman]

Re:

You saying it's a new chain and cassette should mean nothing slips at the back. So,
1 is the chain the correct one for the number of sprockets? Ie. Not too wide and it's fouling and lifting. Eg a 9 speed chain for 9 cogs,?
2. Does the chain have a stiff link,? Back pedal slowly by hand looking to see if one of the links doesn't operate loosely
3. Are they indexed gears and the indexing is out so that the chain half-rides on an adjacent sprocket?