Rear Spacing: 130 to 135mm OLD
- Thread starter Dossa
- Start date
frank.youngman
Retro Guru
Let you know tomorrow.Longer axle arrived today (£5 off Ebay) comes complete with extra spacers and cones etc.
On a first examination of the existing 130mm axle the wheel is not central,37mm from centre of rim to frame drive side and 42mm centre to frame non-drive side.Obvious start is to change to the longer axle and put 5mm of extra spacers on drive side and see if this centralises wheel?
Too tired to tackle it tonight.
On a steel frame the shorter axle sometimes works,as the rear stays bend inwards equally.This however is going on a stiff Cannondale.What seems to happen with these if you use too short an axle is that closing the QR's bends the bit of the frame which holds the gear hanger inwards,which causes the rear derailleur to slant inwards,which in turn makes indexing difficult.
Lots of fun
On a first examination of the existing 130mm axle the wheel is not central,37mm from centre of rim to frame drive side and 42mm centre to frame non-drive side.Obvious start is to change to the longer axle and put 5mm of extra spacers on drive side and see if this centralises wheel?
Too tired to tackle it tonight.
On a steel frame the shorter axle sometimes works,as the rear stays bend inwards equally.This however is going on a stiff Cannondale.What seems to happen with these if you use too short an axle is that closing the QR's bends the bit of the frame which holds the gear hanger inwards,which causes the rear derailleur to slant inwards,which in turn makes indexing difficult.
Lots of fun
cce":3k6u9po7 said:
Slightly depends on hub and frame. If the frame is a skinny steel number then you can add a washer either side of the hub before the lock nuts and still have enough axle clear to sit perfectly in the dropouts. Steel frames also flex a little so as long as you get the axle spacing to 132/33mm you'll be fine (that's only 1/1.5mm either side).
In around 1989 many frames were spaced at 132.5mm to cope with 130 or 135mm hubs.
Not really an option with alloy frames though
frank.youngman
Retro Guru
Actual change went well.In the end I used the new axle and the old bits and while I was at it serviced the bearings and changed the freehub for a NOS XT one.Started by setting 5mm of axle showing on the drive side and worked back from there.
The bad news is that with the correct spacers in place to position the cassette where it needs to be the wheel is off centre.If the spacers are changed around so that the wheel is centred in the frame,the cassette is too close to the frame and the chain will foul in top gear.
I obviously need to set the cassette to the right place,which will involve taking up the extra axle length on the drive side,and then have my LBS re-dish the wheel.
The bad news is that with the correct spacers in place to position the cassette where it needs to be the wheel is off centre.If the spacers are changed around so that the wheel is centred in the frame,the cassette is too close to the frame and the chain will foul in top gear.
I obviously need to set the cassette to the right place,which will involve taking up the extra axle length on the drive side,and then have my LBS re-dish the wheel.
