Re-Anodising...

[BerthaPog]

Without getting into home-brew solutions...

Is it possible to get some small parts, currently anodised red, anodised pale blue (tourquiose)?

If so does anybody know a firm that can do it (it's the tension adjusters on a set of kona Curve brakes if that makes a difference)?

TIA for info/knowledge etc..

 

[tintin40]

I found one local to me through yell.com just put anodizers in search.
I was told they can ano over any colour. price was £40 for a seat post, cranks & H2O cage

 

[KeepItSteel]

what were the results like tintin?

if you go straight over another colour doesnt it change the tint?

 

[WD Pro]

I have gone from silver / clear, black, purple red and light blue to dark blue with ace results i.e. No 'dulling' I was warned about ;-)

I even had three of the same component in light blue and red done to an identical shade of blue - no way you could tell them apart I will try and find some pics

The only problem I have had is 'old' alloy which has at some point been scratched and or exposed to salt - even when polished up fine one of steps of the process seeks out all the imperfections :-(

WD

 

[KeepItSteel]

Did you home brew WD?

Im fascinated to see some results either way.

How tough is it to clean up old ally or even new ready for the process?

 

[tintin40]

what were the results like tintin?

if you go straight over another colour doesnt it change the tint?

I was very happy with the results. Had a H2O red refreshed.
Blue post turned black
red cranks turned black both look very good.

My problem was the company. The man i dealt with clearly wasn't an anodizer and told me how things would turn out like the logos would be gone.
When i got them logos in place. Their was no communication from him. Ice. As if they didn't really want the business.
I have some blue levers i wanted changing black. i'll live with them blue.

 

[WD Pro]

No it wasn't home brew

Old alloy - take your chances ... :? But to be fair the problem bits I had were hard anodised and I wonder if that process is more aggressive ?

New bits - I have just flatted burrs and scuffs of - left good ano in place.

New bits I made from vigin alloy (to a good surface finish) - just de-greased.

Like painting, better prep / nicer finish = better results

Ano will NOT cover or 'fill in' scratches :-( and if the part is chemically brightend rather than done in matt, it can actually make them look worse :shock:

Give us 10 mins (on the iPhone) and I will post all my pics

WD

 

[WD Pro]

I shoud have added that some grades of alloy won't anodise or accept colour very well - spot the grey bits on one of the pics I will post in a min

 

[WD Pro]

Finding this post saved me a lot of time pissing around with the Photobucket app

WD Pro has had some very successful anode work done

I would add on new alloy i.e. stuff that has never seen salt corrosion ...

Even if you flat it off and polish it up nice the etch process will seek any corrosion out and the results can be quite concerning ... Enough for me shelf an ally seat post that I had for the Marin build anyway

Having said that, the last batch I had done was hard anodising and I dont know if the process is a little more aggressive ?

Other than the few problems items in the hard ano, the other stuff I have had done (mostly in blue and silver) has come out very good and far better than most of the 'off the shelf' ano stuff I have seen. Even got very good results going from black to blue

I use colour anodising : http://www.anodising.com/html/intro.htm

These were black :

Note that the camera doesnt pick up the sparkle in the ano that you get when viewed in sunlight

The ProFlex bits will be going there soon

WD

WD

 

[WD Pro]

The tri dangle was purple :

Now in 'hard' black like the bits around the seatpost clamp further up

WD