Race Face LP/Turbine LP with single ring (SS question)

[neilll]

Will the above cranks work ok with a single 32t ring, as in, will it mount ok on its own instead of the usual 'spacers and mounted behind a big ring' scenario?

I'm talking singlespeed application here if that helps

 

[No Longer Registered]

I Run Turbines on my S/S, but I run the ring in the position of the middle ring. I run quite a wide BB axle and have worked out the next BB I buy if I opt of a short axle I should be able to swap the ring onto the outer position.
Bottom bracket axle width and the clearance you have to play with between crank and chain stay are the deciding factors.

 

[neilll]

I Run Turbines on my S/S, but I run the ring in the position of the middle ring. I run quite a wide BB axle and have worked out the next BB I buy if I opt of a short axle I should be able to swap the ring onto the outer position.
Bottom bracket axle width and the clearance you have to play with between crank and chain stay are the deciding factors.

Thanks...are there any close up pix on here of your rig? Mine is going on an e-stay but I guess heel clearance is still an issue regardless.

 

[No Longer Registered]

I've not got any saved, but I'll grab you a snap tonight when I pop over to my Workshop.

 

[neilll]

I've not got any saved, but I'll grab you a snap tonight when I pop over to my Workshop.

Thanks, i'm particularly interested if I can run it as an outer ring and it still works ok as well as looking nice

 

[dookie]

i think you'll find that the outer position with a typical BB will produce a quite crooked chainline. if you run a BB that allows some adjustment (or one with a shorter spindle), you might be able to do the outer position.

more importantly: absolutely, positively keep the granny ring bolts in place...just to fill the holes. there have been several reports of turbine spider arms shearing off at the granny ring holes, and apparently the official word from RF is that filling those holes is imperative to the structure of the crank. (mine were not in place when i took this pic...you bet they are now!)

 

[neilll]

more importantly: absolutely, positively keep the granny ring bolts in place...just to fill the holes.

Thanks chap....very useful tip I wouldn't have though of

 

[cchris2lou]

I use turbine on my ss commuter .

46 outer rings .

 

[No Longer Registered]

Interesting point about the bolts. It is also likely the cranks fail where cracks propagate from where the threads have been taped into the alloy. I had a set of Kooka cranks snap along the back edge of the K of Kooka where they had been engraved.

 

[utahdog2003]

I have never heard of a Turbine failing at the chainring holes. I have a red pair that has been in single ring service for nearly 10 years (with a beat to a pulp bash ring!). There are also a million pictures floating around of early downhill bikes from various Canadian builders, all fitted with big-ring only Turbines and no inner bolts. Smells like an urban myth to me.

I would run bolts in the holes just to keep the threads from getting munged-up though. After 10 years I'd have to run a light tap through the threads to allow for a granny ring to be mounted on the red set. I have a black ISIS Turbine set on the blue bike (with a much newer bash ring!), and there are light alloy bolts in the granny ring holes just to keep them clear.

If anyone has the 'official word' from Race Face regarding the chainring bolt as being somehow structural, then I'd like to see it. Otherwise I call BS. I have the original documentation from all four sets of Race Face cranks that I own and none of them says anything about the bolts being necessary.

The Kookas broke because they were Kookas.