Question about KMC chains with "quick link".
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jimo746":330nnp3c said:
Yes, you were just lucky. Use another quick link to add a few more links into a chain. A second quick link in a chain isn't a problem. Manager of the LBS pointed out a bike in for a tune up this spring when I walked in one day with 5 of them. Chain was well pooched and needed replacing, but it was working.
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SRAM's new Power Links are a one shot deal , and need to be replaced after removal. As far as KMC links being stiff, I put one on a 10s Shmoo chain last week. It was a bit stiff. Used the fold and twist trick on it you use on a newly installed Shimano chain with the pin and it loosened up nicely.
Gruff":2d0n4dhp said:
SRAM's new Power Links are a one shot deal , and need to be replaced after removal. As far as KMC links being stiff, I put one on a 10s Shmoo chain last week. It was a bit stiff. Used the fold and twist trick on it you use on a newly installed Shimano chain with the pin and it loosened up nicely.
old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
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I think what he means is holding the chain straight in your hands with the stiff pin/link in between your thumbs. Try to bend the chain sideways in both directions, not hard enough to actually bend the side plates themselves. Then fold the chain up and down at stiff pin/link to help it loosen off. Might take a couple of goes to free up but do it just enough that it loosens off.
I can remember doing this nearly every time I joined a chain before quick links. I have a small chain tool that came free with an MTB mag, a Finish Line Chain Pup, that has a thin stainless steel plate with a slot in the end which is the same width as a chain pin. When rejoining chain with pin the old-fashioned way, you put the thin plate between side plate and inner plate so that when pin was fitted it left enough clearance on removal of plate to prevent stiff links.
Sorry pic is so big :facepalm: , couldn't find one of the plate and tool separate to show slot in plate. The slot in plate is just under where the screw thread is.
I think what he means is holding the chain straight in your hands with the stiff pin/link in between your thumbs. Try to bend the chain sideways in both directions, not hard enough to actually bend the side plates themselves. Then fold the chain up and down at stiff pin/link to help it loosen off. Might take a couple of goes to free up but do it just enough that it loosens off.
I can remember doing this nearly every time I joined a chain before quick links. I have a small chain tool that came free with an MTB mag, a Finish Line Chain Pup, that has a thin stainless steel plate with a slot in the end which is the same width as a chain pin. When rejoining chain with pin the old-fashioned way, you put the thin plate between side plate and inner plate so that when pin was fitted it left enough clearance on removal of plate to prevent stiff links.
Sorry pic is so big :facepalm: , couldn't find one of the plate and tool separate to show slot in plate. The slot in plate is just under where the screw thread is.
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Nice one mate you beat me to it but tbh you've explained it better than i probably would and that link extracter looks real cool compared to the cheap looking one i own
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old_coyote_pedaller":10liedlw said:I think what he means is holding the chain straight in your hands with the stiff pin/link in between your thumbs. Try to bend the chain sideways in both directions, not hard enough to actually bend the side plates themselves. Then fold the chain up and down at stiff pin/link to help it loosen off. Might take a couple of goes to free up but do it just enough that it loosens off.
I can remember doing this nearly every time I joined a chain before quick links. I have a small chain tool that came free with an MTB mag, a Finish Line Chain Pup, that has a thin stainless steel plate with a slot in the end which is the same width as a chain pin. When rejoining chain with pin the old-fashioned way, you put the thin plate between side plate and inner plate so that when pin was fitted it left enough clearance on removal of plate to prevent stiff links.
Sorry pic is so big :facepalm: , couldn't find one of the plate and tool separate to show slot in plate. The slot in plate is just under where the screw thread is.
Nice one mate you beat me to it but tbh you've explained it better than i probably would and that link extracter looks real cool compared to the cheap looking one i own
..
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Kinda, but if you fold the chain with the stiff link up and twist, then repeat with the stiff link folded down. It works the plates apart in all directions.
FWIW, this is the correct OCD way to do it. It's what the second link alignment guide/locator (the one closer to the pin) on your chain tool is for. Personally, I think the 30-45 deg. recommended in the video is a bit aggressive for Hyperglide chains. YRMV.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDFSTi6aMxQ[/youtube]
old_coyote_pedaller":1x9motos said:
Kinda, but if you fold the chain with the stiff link up and twist, then repeat with the stiff link folded down. It works the plates apart in all directions.
FWIW, this is the correct OCD way to do it. It's what the second link alignment guide/locator (the one closer to the pin) on your chain tool is for. Personally, I think the 30-45 deg. recommended in the video is a bit aggressive for Hyperglide chains. YRMV.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDFSTi6aMxQ[/youtube]
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I've done this many times but just every now and then it requires the pin being pushed through just a tad from which ever side is prouder than the other .
FMJ":3szyqoa9 said:old_coyote_pedaller":3szyqoa9 said:
Kinda, but if you fold the chain with the stiff link up and twist, then repeat with the stiff link folded down. It works the plates apart in all directions.
FWIW, this is the correct OCD way to do it. It's what the second link alignment guide/locator (the one closer to the pin) on your chain tool is for. Personally, I think the 30-45 deg. recommended in the video is a bit aggressive for Hyperglide chains. YRMV.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDFSTi6aMxQ[/youtube]
I've done this many times but just every now and then it requires the pin being pushed through just a tad from which ever side is prouder than the other .
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