Phillips Resto

bm0p700f

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No pics yet but I will post progress.

I also need to find a good source of vintage parts like brake cables (modren ones don't seem to fit as there is the barrel type end and a pear type end.

Also would the steerer fork be a 26 TPI like old Raleighs?

Also there is a 3 speed hub that need overhauling.
 
Oh one maor thing. The BB are these a convential english thread?

The drive side cup is stuck as well. No real tool to remove. My HCW-11 sort of fits and the thing won't budge. Plus gas has not helped either.
 
I am having a tool made to remove the cup. It is a piece of steel bar about 2' long that I have drilled a 10mm hole at one end and a friend is milling a slot that fits the cup. I will then replace the other cup and put a 10mm bolt through to keep the tool against the cup while undoing. hopefully this will work. If it does you are welcome to borrow it to remove yours.
 
Thanks for that as I would like to get it out. I have actually got fed up trying to get it out and I have sent the frame of for powder coating with explicit intructions to mask up the BB face/cup area. That way I can reove the stuck cup afterwards.

The frame is being painted olive green. I need to source a new 26x1 3/8th front wheel as the bearing surfaces in the original are knackered.

The rear though I have yet to start working on properly. The sprocket for the 3 speed hub came of easily enough but ther bearing cage is still trapped in inside the sproket assmbly. The laft side hub bearings are also trapped by ring pressed in over the bearing? Not to sure if it pressed in but it has not some out yet. I will have to take another look tommorrow. Then time for a rebuild of the 3 speed hub or a new rear wheel.

I will take some potos and post when I get the frame back.
 
Plenty of info on SA gears if you search. The little dust caps that hold the bearings in are just pressed in, if you damage them a little removing them you can just reshape them. It seems you have not removed the cog, but taken out the drive assembly. Probably a circlip holds the cog on, with 2 spacers. The 3/16 balls above the driver are held in by a removable ring which will be quite easy to get off.
The end plate under the driver is a right hand thread, but 2 start, so mark the position before you remove it, (quite easy with a flat chisel and a light hammer). The other end plate is left hand thread conventional single start.
 
I though they might be pressed in. But once dissasembled will sorting the the poor engage of top be easily fixable. I think given the rim is rusting a bit is will be easier to buy a complete wheel and then keep this hub and stip it down just to work out how to do it.

I did notice the circlip behind the cog and I did figure that held the cog on. The frame is in for painting. I will post pics when I get it back. It should look quite good when its done. I have found a source for all the aprts bar the rear brake caliper.
 
I believe there are parts for the SA AW about, you need 4 planet pins and the cross shaped sliding clutch, which are small and comparatively cheap. When the AW was designed this low cost and easy replacement of these parts was very important.
You might be able to grind the existing parts a little to sharpen up the critical surfaces.
First make sure the cable is running perfectly free, and get the adjustment right (easy).
The return spring is not very powerful, but might be worth a little stretch.
Check this with the many diagrams out there, the AW ran from 1937, with minor modifications.
Didn't think of this, if the fork column (steerer) is 26 tpi then the bottom brack will be 26 tpi. If forks are original.
 
i have just finished putting an elderly Phillips back on the road a couple of weeks ago , left the frame and paintwork as it was given to me , kept the 3 sp sturmey archer set up as well not totally sure if 1st is working or not but in the 6 miles ridden so far it rolls along in 3rd and 2nd very nicely .

also have a 531Phillips frame awaiting start but unsure what to do yet so keeping it till i decide .
 
I think goven the condition of the spokes (the rim is fine) I will ust get a new wheel with 3spd hub in it. Saves alot of hassle. Then I can play around with this hub at my lesuire and maybe it will be useable for a future build. the hub is 60 years old so I think it done it time.
 
Does anyone know where I can get the tool to undo the drive side BB cup on these old bikes. I would really like to remove it and clean up threads copper slip and put it back in for completleness sake as everything else is in pieces ready for painting. Should be stunning when its done.
 

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