Parts swap . Needless tinkering or not ?

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That was always what I never liked about those retro friction shifters. They use a lot of movement per gear shift, so by the time you get to the big cogs, it's almost pointing backwards. The advantages of course, are the ability to fettle and get it just right as you change and the leverage is such that the cable is less likely to slip out of gear
Thanks for that . I was curious because I can't see any problem with anything . What still confuses me a little is that it was never that extreme when it was on the Jackson . The only difference is how close the cable stop is to the dropout , on the Jackson it was further away . As the mech has a really high cable entry point the outer cable is short and fairly tight , if you see what I mean .
 
In terms of why it wasn't like that on the Jackson, the reverse of what I said also applies. So that mm of not taking up the slack on the cable is magnified at the lever, IE makes a lot of difference.

Also, are the wheels, block/cassette etc identical?
 
In terms of why it wasn't like that on the Jackson, the reverse of what I said also applies. So that mm of not taking up the slack on the cable is magnified at the lever, IE makes a lot of difference.

Also, are the wheels, block/cassette etc identical?
Yes , everything else is the same and there is no slack at all in the cable . When I move the lever the mech moves instantly , I'm retentive about this as there's no possible adjustment . I wind the stop screw in a couple of turns before I tighten the cable and then unwind it afterwards .
It could just be my crappy memory I suppose .:confused:
 
One thing I used to do (and it's proper butchery) is I used to file the lever stop tab so when it was in the little sprocket the lever went beyond parallel to the down tube. As top gear was used less than lowest, I found it ergonomically better.
Not sure I'd do it these days with rare and retro kit
 
One thing I used to do (and it's proper butchery) is I used to file the lever stop tab so when it was in the little sprocket the lever went beyond parallel to the down tube. As top gear was used less than lowest, I found it ergonomically better.
Not sure I'd do it these days with rare and retro kit
:D Yeah , I think I'll give that one a miss !
I'm happy if everything is as it should be and not dysfunctional . I have some C-Record ones somewhere and possibly even some Victories if it bothers me that much .
Thanks for your help pigman , appreciated .
 
I’m a needless tinker. I like to take good quality vintage frames and update modern components, especially the cockpit. Here is a bike that I put on a carbon fork, one piece aero carbon bars and mid level Campy components. The wheels are Campy training wheels and could roll better. Look pedals I had floating around. IMG_0288.jpeg IMG_0289.jpeg
I also updated a Schwinn Peloton. I had to spread both and re align both frames. Beautiful riding bikes. IMG_0709.jpeg IMG_0710.jpeg
 
I’m a needless tinker. I like to take good quality vintage frames and update modern components, especially the cockpit. Here is a bike that I put on a carbon fork, one piece aero carbon bars and mid level Campy components. The wheels are Campy training wheels and could roll better. Look pedals I had floating around. View attachment 786423View attachment 786424
I also updated a Schwinn Peloton. I had to spread both and re align both frames. Beautiful riding bikes.View attachment 786425View attachment 786426
You're an accomplished tinkerer as we know . You painted the Somec too , if I remember correctly ? When you respace the rear how far do you move each side ? The only time I've done it and measured it I tried to get 2mm on the non drive and 4mm on the drive .{124 to 130} but it occurred to me that I had no way of knowing after I'd finished , only that I'd achieved 130 .
 
I’m a needless tinker. I like to take good quality vintage frames and update modern components, especially the cockpit. Here is a bike that I put on a carbon fork, one piece aero carbon bars and mid level Campy components. The wheels are Campy training wheels and could roll better. Look pedals I had floating around. View attachment 786423View attachment 786424
I also updated a Schwinn Peloton. I had to spread both and re align both frames. Beautiful riding bikes.View attachment 786425View attachment 786426
I updated my mid 90's Rourke with some carbon bits , but I'm mostly not a fan of carbon for a couple of reasons , 1 , because of it's unrecycleability{?} and 2 , with bars and forks because I cycled exclusively in cities where component failure can easily be compounded by other stuff you have no control over , traffic and pot holes mainly .
I didn't have to respace it as it was built as 128mm
P1060180.JPG
 
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