Pace build (RC200 F3) continues - strip and replace....

[dbmtb]

1) What middleburn cranks do I have. I though RS-3 but the pics I've seen of other sets seem to have RS-3 on the lower arms

They are original RS3s. They modified the design around 95 as too many of them were splitting.

2) I've currently got a UN91 BB in there, is this the right BB for the cranks (it was previously running the M737 cranks). How close should the crank arms be to the frame. I think mine look OK, but has anyone got a pic of their clearance?

You need 113mm. UN91 was also available as 107. There should be approx7-10mm clearance from inside of crank arms to frame. But Pace has assymetric stays so it may not be the same either side.

3) Forks - I'm not 100% sure about the blue arches and fork sides, as it isn't the same as the turquoise ringle colour - thoughts opinions please

Prefer them silver myself.

4) Chain suck device - after moving the individual teeth to different holes, it now looks OK with the 110 BCD chainset, but has anyone got any pics of how it should look/teeth distance from chain rings

No but just run it as close as you can without it rubbing.

5) Mint sauce decal - should I remove?

Yes

6) Forks again - I want a ti stage II bolt kit - any thoughts on where I can get some from?

No

7) More forks - rocker for cantis. I've got a nos kit, but it's nothing like on any other one on my forks - see pic below How does this fit/work?

Fit it as well as you can and we'll tell you how you're doing. It's very hard to explain in writing in a hurry.

 

[dbmtb]

Double post sorry

 

[ishaw]

Fit it as well as you can and we'll tell you how you're doing. It's very hard to explain in writing in a hurry.

OK, so fitting the rocker is simple enough, washer against the fork, rocker, spring (just the one), spring cover then bolt it all together.

The bit I am struggling with is the brass washers for the cabling - it's been a while since I fitted cantis from scratch, with a rocker.

 

[ishaw]

1) What middleburn cranks do I have. I though RS-3 but the pics I've seen of other sets seem to have RS-3 on the lower arms

They are original RS3s. They modified the design around 95 as too many of them were splitting.

A little disconcerting - should I be worried about the splitting phenomena?

2) I've currently got a UN91 BB in there, is this the right BB for the cranks (it was previously running the M737 cranks). How close should the crank arms be to the frame. I think mine look OK, but has anyone got a pic of their clearance?

You need 113mm. UN91 was also available as 107. There should be approx7-10mm clearance from inside of crank arms to frame. But Pace has assymetric stays so it may not be the same either side.

I think my clearance is about that, so that's a relief - I don't have to take it all apart again so soon.

3) Forks - I'm not 100% sure about the blue arches and fork sides, as it isn't the same as the turquoise ringle colour - thoughts opinions please

Prefer them silver myself.

Thanks for your input, I'm kind of with you sometimes, others not. Lets see what the consensus is. Maybe someone fancies swapping?

4) Chain suck device - after moving the individual teeth to different holes, it now looks OK with the 110 BCD chainset, but has anyone got any pics of how it should look/teeth distance from chain rings

No but just run it as close as you can without it rubbing.

Done!

5) Mint sauce decal - should I remove?

Yes

Will be done!

6) Forks again - I want a ti stage II bolt kit - any thoughts on where I can get some from?

No

Damn - they look so much nicer with ti bolts. Hopefully someone will know where I can get some.

 

[dbmtb]

A little disconcerting - should I be worried about the splitting phenomena?

No but be aware of it. If you don't overtighten them you should be OK.

What happened with mine is that I had them running on a creaky Zero BB and I thought the crank was loose so I overtightened it. Not so much that you would expect them to split - but nonetheless, overtightened.

Problem is that a lot of other people seem to have done the same when running creaky Ti. BBs so they changed the design.

 

[Twister]

Liking this a lot.

 

[justbackdated]

Yep-washer against bridge, then rocker on the brass bush, spring and adjuster plate with bolt fitted so head sits in adjuster plate socket.[you have a spare washer and spring!]

Outer cable stops in the socketed brass barrel sitting in one side of the rocker 'hooks' and the inner cable goes on to the bolted clamp on the canti.[I think usually the rh one]

Then you need a short 'bridge' cable or a short length of cable with a barrel nipple to extend from the other side of the canti set to the bolted brass nipple which sits in the empty 'hook' of the rocker.

Clear as mud!! A picture is worth a 1000 words but I cant find one!! :roll:

 

[justbackdated]

Until now!

 

[ishaw]

Thanks Tim, that's how I thought it worked, just seemed that the brass bit that attaches to the short cable seemed too small to me, which is what confused me. That picture did speak 1000 words, thanks!

 

[justbackdated]

I always thought the clamp nip looked a bit undersize too!