Nuovo Record FD Nuisance

[Johnsqual]

Hello,

I am pulling my hair out trying to adjust a NR
front derailleur. I have a bike with a campagnolo
BB and chainset.

In the lowest gear (small sprocket-big ring)
the drive side crank always hits the derailleur
cage, particularly the front part.

I tried moving the freewheel inwards to change the
chainline, but this doesn't seem to help. There just doesn't seem
enough clearance between the big ring and the crank arm. Arrrgh...

Is this a common problem? I notice marks on this crank arm and
another NR one, so it seems like it happens to others.

Thanks for any help^.

Johnny

 

[Midlife]

Is it a 70's front mech with more modern wider block on the rear wheel?

Shauhn

 

[Johnsqual]

Hello Shaun,

Not, it has a 5 speed block on the rear.

Johnny

 

[Midlife]

Hi...just twigged, you mean the highest gear

Any pics of the problem because that just shouldn't happen with a matching set up and the cage correctly angled and adjusted.

Sometimes you have to "splay" the cage a bit to prevent the chain catching but it shouldn't touch the crank arm.

Shaun

 

[Citoyen du monde]

In 1978 Campagnolo felt that it was necessary according to the American safety laws to add a "lip" to the front of the front derailleur cage. At the same time, they also made a change to the spacing between the crank arm and the spider of the chainset. If you are now attempting to use a "newer" front derailleur with the lip and and "older" chainset with the narrow spacing, you could run into problems.

old style

new style

You can recognise the newer cranks if they have original chainrings by the presence of a peg on the large chainring in correspondence with the crank arm.

If this is not the problem, you will then likely need to do what any mechanic would have done back in the day, which is to get to work with an adjustable spanner and do a bit of bending.

 

[Midlife]

About the same time they added a small "bubble" to the quick release mechanism of the brakes to prevent it acting like a scalpel in a crash.... allegedly.

Shaun

 

[Johnsqual]

Thanks for the replies.

Citoyen Du Monde has the answer: it is indeed the
lip on the FD that is causing the problem.

Is it possible to bend the cage so the lip's not in the way
(or does theb suggestion about bending only apply to
the older FDs)?

Otherwise, does anyone have an older Nuovo Record
FD they want to swap for a new one?

Johnny

 

[Citoyen du monde]

Thanks for the replies.

Citoyen Du Monde has the answer: it is indeed the
lip on the FD that is causing the problem.

Is it possible to bend the cage so the lip's not in the way
(or does theb suggestion about bending only apply to
the older FDs)?

Otherwise, does anyone have an older Nuovo Record
FD they want to swap for a new one?

Johnny

You can indeed generally bend the front tip of the cage of the front derailleur just enough to get clearance and still have it work. An adjustable spanner is the ideal tool for this. In fact an adjustable spanner was a very important tool back in teh day to get teh front derailleur working to perfection.

 

[Midlife]

Use a thick rag or a broken lolly stick to prevent the jaws of the spanner marking the cage if you gently bend it out of the way..

This was common practice in the 70's before the "groupset" arrived. People bought what they could afford or liked the look of so unless you had a lot of money most bikes had a mix of campag record, nuvo tipo, sugino, Shimano, Sakae, TA, Stronglight, Zeus....and the rest LOL

As long as the chainrings are straight then it's OK....

Shaun

 

[Old Ned]

Rather than buy a complete front mech, if you can find a seized up etc. old mech the 'flat' cage and pivot assembly may off quite easily and could be fitted on to your body. Just release the tension spring and remove the circlip (if fitted, not all mechs have one depending on age). I have several Record front mechs and I've lost touch as to which cage came with which body.

Does the frame have a very short chainstay? This can affect the chainline dramatically.