Noob

drewesq

Retro Newbie
Hi all

I am based in Devon, have recently purchased my first retro bike (photos to come):- it is a Condor 531, not sure of model and the frame is quite rusty so getting the serial number isn't easy!

I have 7 speed block on the back which is a bit crap, the RD is a shimano 600, downshifters are suntour, look nice and work well and the leavers are Condor. I had lots of new bits before I bought; saddle; bar tape; spokes

The bike is a size smaller than I would usually have and that means I've had to purchase a longer seat pin.

I am wondering if I can replace the block with something newer since the gears do tend to slip a lot?

The only other issue is the FD rubs the chain when in big ring, but if I was to open the limit screw the crank arm strikes it when pedalling!

I do really enjoy riding it though, I have 4 other bikes and this is the 'road' bike which I'll really only use in dry summery weather (so a couple of days a yesr!)

Anyway, nice to meet you

Andrew :)
 
Welcome. If the chain is skipping, firstly check there are no stiff links. Secondly fit a new chain, as the old one may have worn too long (people say 'stretch' but it's wear). In all probability when you do this it could still skip in a couple of gears due to a couple of worn sprockets.

When you say block do you mean a screw-on freewheel or cassette? Both spares are readily available (Spa Cycles has a good choice). However, adding more gears is likely to end up in a spiral of complications.

The rubbing of the front mech is likely because it is slightly misaligned - loosening the clamp so the cage runs dead parallel to the chainring should sort it.
 
hamster":1wvqb9zh said:
Welcome. If the chain is skipping, firstly check there are no stiff links. Secondly fit a new chain, as the old one may have worn too long (people say 'stretch' but it's wear). In all probability when you do this it could still skip in a couple of gears due to a couple of worn sprockets.

When you say block do you mean a screw-on freewheel or cassette? Both spares are readily available (Spa Cycles has a good choice). However, adding more gears is likely to end up in a spiral of complications.

The rubbing of the front mech is likely because it is slightly misaligned - loosening the clamp so the cage runs dead parallel to the chainring should sort it.

Thanks Hamster, that's really useful. The chain looks pretty new if I'm honest but the sprockets look really old maybe original, so think I should change that...

How can I tell if it is a screw on freewheel or a cassette? I have changed out the shimano cassettes on my modern bikes, but have no idea about this one!

I'll have another look at the FD later!
 
If there is a lockring like your later bikes then it's a cassette. Freewheels typically have two or four slots to unscrew them. In a freewheel the freewheeling mechanism is inside the cogs instead of the hub. For a full explanation see here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
c9ZW2.jpg
 
Re: Re:

LDP":1bk6a3o6 said:
Welcome, to can't offer any more technical help than hamster but we are all a tart for pictures :wink:

Hi

I did try to upload a pic but it's too big, I'll need to resize later an post it up.

I should warn you that it is a rust bucket though, so don't expect a sexy Colnago looky-likey!
 
hamster":3lfpw0vd said:
If there is a lockring like your later bikes then it's a cassette. Freewheels typically have two or four slots to unscrew them. In a freewheel the freewheeling mechanism is inside the cogs instead of the hub. For a full explanation see here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
c9ZW2.jpg


Thanks again Hamster!

I'm pretty sure I'll have a freewheel then, do I not need any special tools then to change it out for a modern one? Looks like a chain whip will probably do it?!
 
A chain whip will only rotate it backwards and click the freewheel. :wink:

You need a tool that fits the (stationary) inside part. There are an enormous number of different tools (two or four pin) and other freaky arrangements. If you are lucky enough to have a Shimano freewheel, then a stock Shimano cassette lockring tool will fit. It's simplest to go to a decent local bike shop with a packet of biscuits at a quiet time... 8)

See here, the tool fits on those two slots in the middle. As the pedalling forces tighten the freewheel, it can be on VERY tight. Fitting the tool into a vice and using the entire wheel to undo it is easiest. If you have a loose hub then you are already in trouble.
freewheel14-38.jpg
 
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