Tim AKA justbackdated tells me that the offset is in fact in the angle of the hole that holds the steerer, not in the stanchion holes as I assumed. It has the same effect though.Anthony":17f8c9u5 said:You see the bolts at the front that secure the steerer? They should be at the back. I have a feeling there is no offset in the crown in RC35 crowns, as there is with most forks, but that it gets the offset by holding the stanchions at a slight angle, which is currently reversed. Either way, I wouldn't fancy riding it like that, especially down a hill :shock:
It would take about ten minutes to fix it I think. Quickest way is unbolt the stanchions from the crown, loosen the stem, reverse the crown, turn the stem to face forwards again, re-bolt the stanchions and re-tighten the stem, job done.
Anthony":32llvndk said:Tim AKA justbackdated tells me that the offset is in fact in the angle of the hole that holds the steerer, not in the stanchion holes as I assumed. It has the same effect though.Anthony":32llvndk said:You see the bolts at the front that secure the steerer? They should be at the back. I have a feeling there is no offset in the crown in RC35 crowns, as there is with most forks, but that it gets the offset by holding the stanchions at a slight angle, which is currently reversed. Either way, I wouldn't fancy riding it like that, especially down a hill :shock:
It would take about ten minutes to fix it I think. Quickest way is unbolt the stanchions from the crown, loosen the stem, reverse the crown, turn the stem to face forwards again, re-bolt the stanchions and re-tighten the stem, job done.
Normally you would have c40mm of offset, and that is vital to the steering working as intended. In the case of the RC35 it's partly in the angle of the steerer to the crown and partly in the dropouts being ahead of the legs - say it is supposed to be 25mm in the dropouts and 15mm in the steerer, then in this example you have 25mm - 15mm = 10mm, rather than 25mm + 15mm = 40mm!
That's quite a difference, and downhill your weight must be dangerously close to acting ahead of the front axle, which requires quite a lot of survival skills.
Yes, it should be ok. Tim also said that the advice I gave you was fine, just that he would also Loctite the stanchions into the crown.ernie":2s9zliwr said:![]()
Sorry to be thick at gittish..my heads beginning to hurt
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...are the forks ok? is the bike ok ?can i rectify the problem????...thanks Ernie
Anthony":al26d7sy said:Yes, it should be ok. Tim also said that the advice I gave you was fine, just that he would also Loctite the stanchions into the crown.ernie":al26d7sy said:![]()
Sorry to be thick at gittish..my heads beginning to hurt
![]()
...are the forks ok? is the bike ok ?can i rectify the problem????...thanks Ernie
Tell you a little story. I’ve recently acquired the May 98 MBR. I bought it at the time, but long since lost it. Two classified ads just caught my eye:
'17" Kona Kilauea 1997, XT/LX used, new SPDs (boxed), bargain £500, York'
and
'Kona Explosif 18" 1995. Pace RC35, XT 24 speed, Ritchey, Gripshift. Hardly used. £800 Tel: (E Sussex) 01892 etc'
So? Well number one, the Kilauea is the bike I bought and have owned ever since 1998 and that was the ad that I replied to. Number two, that Explosif must be the one now for sale on eBay - there can't be that many 1995 Explosifs with RC35s and the eBay bike is in Tunbridge Wells, which has STD code 01892. How’s that for a coincidence?
And it was hardly used even then. I wonder if it's had the fork in banzai mode all this while?