New to old road bikes

Paul, that is the one I used to change one way with the inside of my leg. It had to be bent a bit first, and worked better when the centre fixing wasquite loose.
 
As already said by other forum members try to keep the original paint work.Enjoy the innocent pleasure of bring this classic back to the road.
 
Spent today very carefully cleaning paint and chrome. 0000 grade steel wool does a good job but some of the plating is totally missing. Other areas are through to the nickel. Paint adhesion is good, even on areas such as the fork blades under the crown where tyre rub has worn large patches away. Paint has lifted here but even the loose parts are robust enough to gently clean. The same can't be said for the transfers. They are so delicate that you can not touch or wipe them. Does anyone have a good method of stabilising and preserving these?

Otherwise, I found the rim manufacturer under the rust, Dunlop Special Lightweight. Everything else came apart without drama apart from the pedals which are in love with the Durax cranks. I suspect only a lot of heat would separate them. Chrome is all gone on the crank arms. Headset and BB in excellent internal condition thanks to the grease nipples. BB shell solid with grease. Externally the headset chrome is pitted but not too bad. Both can go straight back in after a good clean and fresh lube. GB brakes need a good clean and new pad inserts if I can find some. A closer look at the driveside rear dropout confirms that this has been filed off, so it is possible that there was once some sort of deraillieur hanger which has been removed.
 
Uncle Monty":3ffpdu2w said:
The same can't be said for the transfers. They are so delicate that you can not touch or wipe them. Does anyone have a good method of stabilising and preserving these?

Clear nail varnish will stick any loose bits back down and protect the surface, but use a good soft artists brush not the nail varnish brush or a small tin of Humbrol's varnish :)
 
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