My 1997 Trek 930 SingleTrack - Ice Green

jameshammy

Devout Dirtbag
Morning all,

Just joined up after having the first decent outing on the bike in a wile on Saturday so figured it best to get a few choice snaps up now that I've got the bike restored.

01.jpg


02.jpg


03.jpg


04.jpg


05.jpg


06.jpg


07.jpg


08.jpg


09.jpg


10.jpg


11.jpg


12.jpg


13.jpg


14.jpg


15.jpg


16.jpg


17.jpg


18.jpg


Enjoy!

James.
 
nah, the front mech (originally STX [not RC]) broke years back so I bought that XTR mech for 6 quid from ebay ages ago :)
 
That looks nice and clean :) I like the look a lot.
Do you have any changes in mind for it ?


--
critique

Front mech, I would look for a compact designed mech M737/739 era. It looks seriously wrong, too far back and/or twisted a bit too much. I would say, it would effect your downshift as the twist on the chain it creates is a long way from the ring (so not a lot of twist, which is the basis of the shifting). Do you have scraping on the side problems?
But then sometimes they just happen to work :)

Cable routing on the top.
I cannot see the angle of the front mech seatpost stop, but It may work better and have a smoother route if you run the front mech down the left hand side and in that way.
Then run the rear mech down the right and you'll get a smoother run to the seatstays (after shortening the outer cable there as well.)

But that's just somthing to do when you et the urge to fettle.
 
yes, to be honest I do plan to doss with it a bit. the mech was only ever a temporary fix and no, it doesn't change amazingly well so i do need one more suited to spec of chainset i've got. the rear mech works beautifully and is indexed nicely.

i need to fine-tune the maguras as i tend to be a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to them. real close to the rim but no rubbing please!

i have a spare cable stop on the top tube due to going hydraulic for brakes (need to get some magura clip thingies so I can actually use the tube guide to clip the hydraulic cable into) but the way the front mech cabling is run is the way it came out of the factory so didn't bother to argue. it also used to have the STX front mech which was a top/bottom pull design and was more inline with the seat tube so didn't protrude right out towards the crankset but works really well the way it is cbaling-wise.

you got any pictures of the front mech that would be more suited?


FluffyChicken":tjz3z5v1 said:
That looks nice and clean :) I like the look a lot.
Do you have any changes in mind for it ?


--
critique

Front mech, I would look for a compact designed mech M737/739 era. It looks seriously wrong, too far back and/or twisted a bit too much. I would say, it would effect your downshift as the twist on the chain it creates is a long way from the ring (so not a lot of twist, which is the basis of the shifting). Do you have scraping on the side problems?
But then sometimes they just happen to work :)

Cable routing on the top.
I cannot see the angle of the front mech seatpost stop, but It may work better and have a smoother route if you run the front mech down the left hand side and in that way.
Then run the rear mech down the right and you'll get a smoother run to the seatstays (after shortening the outer cable there as well.)

But that's just somthing to do when you et the urge to fettle.
 
I had a 94 Trek 930 in cyan blue, my first proper MTB. Sold it many years ago, wish I still had it :cry:
 
Back
Top