Between a full time job, a 20hr a week course and 3 kids there's little progress on anything! When they come up I find the time to pick them up (the course means I'm on the internet a lot so I spot them). Once the course finishes next year I'll have a good basis for a few projects! Some to bring back to life to sell to recoup some of the cost and some for me. Always wanted a Prestige frame so this could be a keeper. Could never justify the expense but this'n was real cheap ;-)
Merlin (Tange Prestige)
- Thread starter jaypee
- Start date
Merlin Prestige were good frames, just as well made as big brand names and generally with superior tubesets. I would say that looks like a 96 or 97, but the serial number would probably nail it down. Most of the kit looks 97, except the fork may be a slightly later upgrade. You've presumably got hand-built Merlin wheels with db spokes, which would justify the cost of the bike on their own!
I would guess you'll most likely have to sacrifice the seatpost, but in my experience once you've cut it out you'll probably find the frame is undamaged (provided you're careful with the saw!) Very often they're not actually seized together, but the galling that takes place is such a high-friction dust substance that you just can't shift them. Then once you've cut a strip out of it and got a pipe wrench on it, it can often come out surprisingly easily.
I would guess you'll most likely have to sacrifice the seatpost, but in my experience once you've cut it out you'll probably find the frame is undamaged (provided you're careful with the saw!) Very often they're not actually seized together, but the galling that takes place is such a high-friction dust substance that you just can't shift them. Then once you've cut a strip out of it and got a pipe wrench on it, it can often come out surprisingly easily.
Interesting, thanks!
The wheels are mavic (can't remember which, will check) on stx, how will I tell if they're Merlin built? Will the spokes be noticeably narrower in the middle?
I'm hoping to find a strong, narrow metal bar that I can clamp into the top of the seatpost (like a saddle) for some leverage but I fully expect to have to saw/caustic soda it out in due course.
The wheels are mavic (can't remember which, will check) on stx, how will I tell if they're Merlin built? Will the spokes be noticeably narrower in the middle?
I'm hoping to find a strong, narrow metal bar that I can clamp into the top of the seatpost (like a saddle) for some leverage but I fully expect to have to saw/caustic soda it out in due course.
Mike Muz 67":39j6x645 said:He lives in Brighton Coomber , so it's probably just another Police statistic nowcoomber":39j6x645 said::facepalm:
Mike
I'm not sure I follow this so for the record I'll explain that I bought it from the guy's house and he seemed totally legit, it had just sat in his shed to the point where literally everything was seized so he couldn't justify a high price. Even the skewers couldn't be unscrewed without penetrating oil.
I'm sure that's not what you meant Mike but no harm
in saying it anyway! ;-)
It looks totally like a Merlin complete bike bought on mail order in early to mid 97. All that Ritchey kit is what they fitted as standard. In which case, Merlin-built Mavic wheels on Shimano hubs with db ATI spokes is very likely. You can feel the butting by running your fingers from the end of the spoke - it's just a few cm in.jaypee":3qx1c6dt said:
That's always worth a try, but the strength of the galling is usually greater than that of the seatpost clamp, so the latter goes first! Another method is to drill a hole through both sides of the post near the base, put a rod through it and try to turn that. Cutting is obviously more problematic if the post is well into the frame, but it beats caustic soda as you don't really want to lose any of that nice paint.jaypee":3qx1c6dt said:
Cheers Anthony, I'll certainly avoid the caustic then! I've prized open the top of the seat tube very slightly and have been drip feeding ammonia into it (been doing it to a couple of bikes) so I'd like to give the metal rod option a go - maybe through a hole as you say. The ammonia appears to sink in so it may be gradually eating away at the galling. This is my first proper go at a stuck seatpost but I'm in no hurry. I'm also keen to avoid the hours of hard labour I've seen others go to! Thanks for the advice 
