I've got four or five sets of magura's.
Do they need bleeding test - the pads should move as soon as you the brake lever depresses the piston.
The brakes need to be bled with the lever reach adjustment (for small hands) backed off fully. If yours have one, the red dial (does the same as a barrel adjuster) needs to be wound out. Be ware of 2nd hand brakes that suffer from this (I've had both instances).
Magura blood is a bit pricey, but you use so little it's irrelevant to a set of brake blocks, and it never needs changing. If you're ultra tight then the fluid used for citreon oleo pneumatic suspension is really cheap.
Evo II mounts - brilliant - but they're not as versatile as the original system so don't throw the old ones out. e.g. on the back of my MT Vision they can't be used and I can't run a brace at all.
Poorly made? I've never broken any parts of mine and I must have fitted and refitted at least 15 times in total now. Use copper slip on the M5 bolts.
Learning to bleed them is stressful, don't take them apart or cut the hoses down unless you really need to. With care, it is possible to cut the hoses down to shorten them without bleeding as long as you don't spill any fluid. Bleeding them on the bike is twice as hard.
If you haven't got the correct fluid use anything other then brake fluid, water vegetable oil etc.
The slave cylinders (brake pad end) can't be dismantled.
Gloves should be worn when dealing with magura blood, it stinks on your hands afterwards.
The important trick when bleeding them is to depress the syringe when you're unscrewing the syringe fitting thus filling the void you're creating with fluid.