Kona Impact Headset Help

[Tallpaul]

I'm stripping my Kona down to be sent for spraying and i'm toying with the idea of ditching the Impact Headset.

The main problem is that the bottom cup doesnt sit flush to the fixed cone of the fork. There is a 1mm gap.

I've got to tap out the cups anyway so i'm thinking of sticking a 'new' 1 1/8 threaded headset in there. This throws up a couple of questions:

- Do i need to get the cone off the Project Two forks or is it integral? If it is integral will it work with the bearings of any other headset?

- Will a new headset need the same length of steerer tube? I never played with headsets back in the day so i'm only good with aheadsets Will i need to trim the steerer or can i add spacers or are all threaded headsets the same height?

- Finally! Anyone know where i can get a 1 1/8" Threaded Headset to suit a 1992 Kona?

Cheers people!

 

[pete_mcc]

You'll have to knock off the lower race from the forks when fitting a new headset, not intergral, just need a hammer and a screwdriver!

As far as a replacement the only thing you need worry about it the stack height (ie how tall the headset is). Impacts weren't the tallest so you'll need something similarly low. Your best bet is a shimano (XT, XTR, LX, STX etc) all great headsets with replacable bearings and great durability.

If you need more help, ask me on wednesday (I used to be a bike shop mechanic before I turned to the darkside of pharma!)

 

[gradeAfailure]

The fixed cone you're talking about is known as the crown race, and it will come off the fork, though you're best off getting your LBS to do it as you don't want to damage the area that it sits on.

As for a different headset, what you need to do when the crown race is off is measure the exact distance from the crown race seat to the top of the steerer tube, and also measure the head tube of the bike. Subtract one from t'other and you should have a number of anything between 35-45mm - this will need to be the stack height of whatever headset you choose to use. Obviously if you have a headset with a lower stack height than the dimension you calculate, you'll need to trim the steerer tube down. If the stack height is greater than the dimension, you can't use that headset.

Personally I'd keep the Impact headset as it can be adjusted easily without headset spanners, and is original to the Kona - just get a neoprene seal that fits over the lower cup assembly to keep the elements out.

Phew!

 

[ridevintagemtb]

Removing the crown race is fairly simple, especially on P2s.. just flip the fork over and place it on the garage floor. Tap the race with a hammer and screwdriver so enough is showing you can wedge the screwdriver in there. Then, just twist with the screwdriver head and work around the race until it pops off.

 

[Russell]

Tap the race with a hammer and screwdriver so enough is showing you can wedge the screwdriver in there. Then, just twist with the screwdriver head and work around the race until it pops off.

I can hear the sound of a thousand delicate bike mechanics crying.

 

[pete_mcc]

But that's the method that most of us used, my shop couldn't afford/couldn't see the point of the park tool. More often than not we were just removing them to be binned anyway so it didn't matter if the race got knackered!

 

[Russell]

But if you twist a steel screwdriver blade (which if they're any good will have been hardened) between a sticky headset race and a head-tube, you are risking damaging the head-tube aswell.

Having said that, just two hours ago I removed a headset race from an Explosif frame with a hammer, just kept twatting it until it fell out, but thats my frame and I don't mind being responsible if I knacker it.

The idea of a bike shop that won't buy the correct tools for the job worries me though :shock:

 

[pete_mcc]

There should be no need to twist a screwdriver though, you just sit it on the backside of the race, hit then repeat on the other side until race drops off.

The Park tool does little more than push a screw driver into the race fork interface itself (although on both sides at the same time) and then yank off. Infact Park say that the hammer and screwdriver option is the workable alternative (abeit with risk of scratching forks). I bet if we had a poll, you'd find a high number of shop mechanics use the same method (although the advent of carbon forks probably has had an impact on it now)

 

[Tallpaul]

well i just tapped out both cups and the race with a screwdriver and hammer, no harm done to headtube, steerer, cups or race

stack height is less than 35mm (32mm ish).

i'll have a couple of weeks while the frame and forks are at Argos so i'll see what's about.

thanks for all your help guys, and i'll see you tomorrow Pete

 

[messiah]

I've found the top half of impacts to be very good - the bottom half is rubbish - on my Kona Explosif I run the top half of a Kona Control Centre with the bottom half of an FSA Orbit Extreme.

Cartridge bearings at the bottom + adjustable by hand at the top = superb!

(May look like a dogs dinner but I don't care )