Is this really a Harry Quinn?

[Robbied196]

Keep it as it is. Clean the paintwork with a gentle application of T-Cut or similar and maintain its patina. It will only have it's original paintwork once - and I doubt very much if you'll be able to source replacement transfers.

+100

 

[Robbied196]

Interestingly, the campagnolo gran sport rear derailleur dates from 1953.

http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Cam ... leurs.html

and the calipers from the early 60s

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... &AbsPos=24

assuming they are original

 

[Old Ned]

That's a small gear your pedaling Ned 42x16 possibly

Yep, it was an early season (Feb?) 3-up on the East Lancs Rd. somewhere near Kirkby. We had to pedal fast to keep warm and, of course, in those days, you never used a big gear early in the season. Did you?

The other 2 are hanging on to my wheel....................

With the TA chainrings it would have been 52/44 tooth and a 14-18 block.

In fact, thinking about it a bit more, it was actually a 4-up. The first guy (who was the one who persuaded the rest of us to ride the event in the first place) went off in the first mile or so.

 

[Old Ned]

Interestingly, the campagnolo gran sport rear derailleur dates from 1953.

http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Cam ... leurs.html

and the calipers from the early 60s

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... &AbsPos=24

assuming they are original

I don't think you can use this to date the bike. In those days (and even now with me!) components got swopped from bike to bike provided they still worked. Campag Gran Sport rear gears are virtually indestructable as are the brakes. I see the front mech looks somewhat newer?

 

[r-jay]

All

Thanks for the info so far. Taking different questions / observations and some extra info.

I'll go over the frame once again in the daylight at the weekend but I can't find any frame number *anywhere* on it. Seems surprising but definitely looks that way.

The front mech - yes, it was changed a few years ago by a local bike shop - as were the tyres. I'd really like to get a suitable vintage front mech to put back on it.

The tyres that were put on were clinchers (27 x 1 1/4) with a max pressure of 65psi. I'll post some picks of the wheels at the weekend but it doesn't look like the rims were designed for clincher tires which is scary... Does anyone know what kind of tyres would have been used at the time and the best way of sourcing something suitable to put on it?

I also need to source a new front axle and skewer for the front wheel - in the course of shipping the bike to the USA (where I now live) it was damaged and I erroneously tried to insert the skewer... Now both need replacing.

I really want to get this in a shape to ride it. What's the best thing to try to clean the chrome with (eg headset, stem)? Also, if I leave the existing paint job as is, what's the best thing to do about the bits of frame that are showing rust where paint has been chipped off (eg BB, chain stays, head tube)? Should I just clear coat and leave it alone?

I think I need to look for pedals, chain, front mech, front axle/skewer and then clean it up / re-cable. Does anyone have the kindness in their hearts to point me to good sources as until now I've been a "as modern as possible" kind of person...

Thanks!

 

[Robbied196]

All
I really want to get this in a shape to ride it. What's the best thing to try to clean the chrome with (eg headset, stem)? Also, if I leave the existing paint job as is, what's the best thing to do about the bits of frame that are showing rust where paint has been chipped off (eg BB, chain stays, head tube)? Should I just clear coat and leave it alone?

I think I need to look for pedals, chain, front mech, front axle/skewer and then clean it up / re-cable. Does anyone have the kindness in their hearts to point me to good sources as until now I've been a "as modern as possible" kind of person...

Thanks!

I'd think about completely stripping the bike, that way you can inspect, clean or replace any bearings or worn parts. Some parts like the headset bearings, crank bearings, wheel bearings, brake and gear cables plus the chain are better replaced for their relatively low cost and it puts you on a level playing field knowing that everything has been done. Stripping will also make cleaning the frame easier. A toothbrush is a great tool for cleaning combined with squirts of WD40. That will remove any oil, grease and tar spots, a lot of paint marks that look permanent will often clean off. Then as Old Ned suggested a careful clean with T.Cut should put a good gloss back on the paint. I use a dremel to clean out small chips followed by touching up with Humbrol enamel paint and a small size, quality artists brush. An exact match is unlikely but with a few yellows and white you should be able to mix a good match. Nail varnish is also another option but I'd go with enamel on your frame.

Ray Dobbins has a good site with some paint tips: http://www.raydobbins.com/pantografata/ ... ouchup.htm

Once its all complete a good wax will help keep the frame clean. For the chrome (also good on alloy) I use 0000 grade steel wool dripped in oil. This grade is very soft almost like cotton wool to touch but gentle use will remove a lot of dirt and rust spots. Autoglym make a good chrome polish that will also help protect the finish.

For parts Ebay is always a good source, not only for the hard to find items but also for new replacements, the bearings, cables and chain etc. Ebay can be expensive for vintage replacements but there are also a few specialist sites like Hilary Stone: http://www.hilarystone.com/
You can email him direct through his website so I'm sure he'd have no problem posting to the USA.
Or: http://www.campyoldy.co.uk/
Or the wanted section on here.

The wheels must be clinchers or the tyres would pop straight back off. The choice is a bit limited for the 27 x 1/14 size but I think Schwalbe still make some good quality amber wall tyres. They have to be amber wall

It depends how perfect you want to be but you can also completely strip and clean the calipers and derailleurs. Where you go with the wheels will depend on how good they are. If you're looking at new hubs they have to be rebuilt which will be worth it if they are original, otherwise you may find a better complete replacement set.

Hope that starts you off and good luck I'm sure the result will be outstanding

 

[torqueless]

I like this kind of fork rake- straight down from the crown, from three quarters of the way down onwards a nice fair curve to the dropouts. Nearly always with LF hub. I don't own a bike without what I consider in comparison to be a slightly clumsy fork bend. When did this fork bend go out of style?

 

[Midlife]

That sort of fork rake with the bend starting low down started to go out in the early 70's ......... to be replaced by a more gradual rake. Mercian's seemed to be in there early with a gradual rake

70's TT bikes had minimal rake, again gradual.

Have to say I disagree with Torqueless as I find a very gradual rake much more pleasing to the eye, but hey, that's life

What I really think looks pants is the "straight" precisia type colnago forks.........

Shaun

 

[torqueless]

Thanks Midlife. We probably don't disagree much. I'm with you on the 'straight' forks, (which look like 'bent at the crown').

If there is a bend, I just like to see a fair curve, with a gentle transition from the straight bit to the curved bit, and the curve getting tighter as it approaches the dropouts. What I don't like is a tighter bend becoming a gentler bend, as you go down the forks, if you see what I mean? Also some time in the early 80s there was a trend for 'banana' shaped forks, with no straight at all- a uniform, lifeless curve from crown to dropouts, which I also dislike. That's all purely aesthetic preferences- god knows if it makes for a discernible difference in bike-handling..

Sorry- back to Quinn! This one is pretty tight at the back for, what? early 60s? Used to wear sprints/tubs, I reckon. I concur with the advice already given. There's no reason to think it's not a Quinn. Looks to be of comparable quality, anyway.

 

[r-jay]

All

Thanks for the input and tips so far. I took a few more pictures at the weekend. Wheels are Campag large flange - 40 spoke rear / 32 front (makes my modern mavic 20 rear / 16 front seem laughable). 5 speed. The rims look like there are some last vestiges of old glue on there but the fabric rim tape is unlike anything I've seen. Although this had clincher tyres on it, there's no bead seat for a tyre (hopefully it shows in the pics) which means it was probably a miracle that the tyres stayed on...

I definitely can't find any form of serial number on the frame as is, so will leave it well alone, start by stripping it down to clean and see if I can get it rideable over the course of the winter!

thanks again for the input / advice.