I'm fitting a brand new, and hence very long, chain. Anyone got any tips about chopping it down to the right length? The Shimano rear mech leaflet says that when fitting, I should have it on the largest rear ring - it doesn't mention how far forwards the rear mech cage should be pulled at this point though. I'm running a chain device at the top and bottom of the (single ring) crankset, if that makes any difference.
How to determine the correct chain length
- Thread starter haydnw
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for normal set up , large ring at the front and large ring at the back without going through the mech and add a full link .
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a mechanic mate once told me
'stay away from my wife!!!!'
and also
smallest cog at the front should have just enough tension for the smallest cog on the back.
'stay away from my wife!!!!'
and also
smallest cog at the front should have just enough tension for the smallest cog on the back.
Not sure about whether this'll help with your set-up but the rule of thumb I adhere to is when you're in top gear the jockey wheels on the mech should be as near as possible to directly above each other... then I try it in largest front and rear cogs to make sure it'll just work (not that anyone ever used that gear with a triple chainset but you prolly will if you're running single ring!)
works for me anyway, though sometimes I take one link out to stop flapping (depends how low / big a bottom rear cog you're using of course, if a 32 or 34 I often don't remove it)
works for me anyway, though sometimes I take one link out to stop flapping (depends how low / big a bottom rear cog you're using of course, if a 32 or 34 I often don't remove it)
mechagouki
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here's the way I was taught and the way I still use - a slightly more indepth (read boring) explanation of what LGF said above:
With the chain around the granny ring and the smallest sprocket and through the derailleur you want enough chain so you have moved the cage from its resting position to having just the tiniest bit of tension (remember you're never going to use this gear or the 2 - 3 above it).
On an average (18") diamond frame your derailleur cage should be able to draw a rough line down the seat stays and through the jockey wheels when in small chainring/small cog position.
Obviously this all changes if you're running 1x8, 2x9 etc. Also if you're very good at using the correct gears all the time (ie, you never, ever cross-gear) you can get away with a shorter chain - thus saving weight.
There you go - clear as mud
With the chain around the granny ring and the smallest sprocket and through the derailleur you want enough chain so you have moved the cage from its resting position to having just the tiniest bit of tension (remember you're never going to use this gear or the 2 - 3 above it).
On an average (18") diamond frame your derailleur cage should be able to draw a rough line down the seat stays and through the jockey wheels when in small chainring/small cog position.
Obviously this all changes if you're running 1x8, 2x9 etc. Also if you're very good at using the correct gears all the time (ie, you never, ever cross-gear) you can get away with a shorter chain - thus saving weight.
There you go - clear as mud
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