How to align saddle and bars.

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Or you can use this for the front. For total overkill (mainly your wallet at 62 Euros). Enter: Tune Spurtreu alignment tool.
Have been thinking about ripping off the design and make myself a jig like this in CAD then 3D-print it in plastic with a cheapo Chinese laser pointer. (same thing for pennies)...
 

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For seat, I align my eye (use only 1) so the top and down tubes are aligned with one another perfectly. BB shell can be useful if the downtube isn't larger than the toptube. Now, the nose of the saddle should be centered on the toptube, without moving bike or head.

For the front end, again align your eye with top and down tubes. Ensure front wheel is aligned with top/down tubes by judging tread visible on each side. Ensure stem bar bolt is centered on tire's tread pattern, again, without moving bike or head.

Just like siting a rifle.

J
 
Re: Re:

syncrosfan":3alv5oft said:
Or you can use this for the front. For total overkill (mainly your wallet at 62 Euros). Enter: Tune Spurtreu alignment tool.
Have been thinking about ripping off the design and make myself a jig like this in CAD then 3D-print it in plastic with a cheapo Chinese laser pointer. (same thing for pennies)...

Would be nice except you would need a way to calibrate the laser line is perpendicular to the jig.

I can gaurentee the cheep thing will not make it easy.
 
"Would be nice except you would need a way to calibrate the laser line is perpendicular to the jig."
That's the beauty of CAD you build first your theoretical handle-bars and laser cylinder perfectly aligned to each other, then you build the structure around (no need for calibration). The fact that the Tune one is made of aluminum is just to make it look nicer (and more expensive). Honestly aligning my handlebars by eye has worked just fine for me for many years, the "need" for this tool is very low (some OCD people would like it though). If anything I'm thinking about making some chain-line gauges for the front (47.5mm and 50mm for different seat-tube diameters) to make the chain-line checking faster (again using CAD and 3-D printing for my own selfish needs...)
 
The cheap £1 lasers on ebay are crap.

Yu can make the jig with three V angles, one to fit on the stem the other two to go either side of the stem on the bars.
 
Until my eyesight fails me, can't see the need for this at all. Never had an issue setting up, in fact I have to do it every day due to riding a folding bike that requires seat post to be reset each fold, and the stem assembly removed from fork steerer. I get by in under a minute.
 
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Depends on your eyes and how offset they make thing look at this sort of distance. It's either dead easy and you wonder why others cannot or it's like me and a few I know where it always ends up a bit to one side even if you try your hardest and guesstimate and offset for your eyes. Even a slight rocking side to side to get the edges lined up often doesn't work.
 
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