HiFi, Speaker cable.

[djoptix]

Oh dear. I promise myself I won't get into these discussions but it keeps happening

First of all, apologies, I didn't read the OP carefully enough. Yes, as LGF says your Yamaha controller will be doing the crossover duties as far as the sub is concerned, so they will dovetail nicely. Providing, of course, that your sub can reproduce frequencies high enough to come up to the bottom of the frequency response range of your other speakers. So it does still matter which sub you use. Of course if you buy it all as a set, things should be peachy. The AX1 doesn't have a powered sub output, but it does have stereo or mono subwoofer, so I should think the mono one will be 6dB higher than either of the sides of the stereo one which will take care of my earlier point about level - though if you're plugging the mono sub output of your AX1 into both inputs of your active sub through a Y cable, you're probably getting too much sub - but depending on what you like to listen to/watch, this may be no bad thing

Bi amping works regardless of whether the signal is sent through a crossover before the speakers or within the speakers.

True dat, as it's only a question of whether the crossover is inside the box or not, but that's not what I meant. I mean that it does make a difference if you crossover/split the signal before the amps. Not that this has much context for an AV discussion as you're all into your million-channel amps, whereas I only really deal in systems that make a lot more noise

 

[legrandefromage]

Oh dear. I promise myself I won't get into these discussions but it keeps happening

First of all, apologies, I didn't read the OP carefully enough. Yes, as LGF says your Yamaha controller will be doing the crossover duties as far as the sub is concerned, so they will dovetail nicely. Providing, of course, that your sub can reproduce frequencies high enough to come up to the bottom of the frequency response range of your other speakers. So it does still matter which sub you use. Of course if you buy it all as a set, things should be peachy. The AX1 doesn't have a powered sub output, but it does have stereo or mono subwoofer, so I should think the mono one will be 6dB higher than either of the sides of the stereo one which will take care of my earlier point about level - though if you're plugging the mono sub output of your AX1 into both inputs of your active sub through a Y cable, you're probably getting too much sub - but depending on what you like to listen to/watch, this may be no bad thing

Bi amping works regardless of whether the signal is sent through a crossover before the speakers or within the speakers.

True dat, as it's only a question of whether the crossover is inside the box or not, but that's not what I meant. I mean that it does make a difference if you crossover/split the signal before the amps. Not that this has much context for an AV discussion as you're all into your million-channel amps, whereas I only really deal in systems that make a lot more noise

Sounds like you are equating PA rigs to home audio. They work on very different principles, PA requires kilowatts and high levels of voltage/ ampage whereas home audio can work from a mere 6 watts and a few milliamps upwards.

domestic subwoofers have mono amplification that downmixes the left and right information, so connecting a y-splitter doesnt make any difference. All his sub would be doing is mixing the specific LFE channel, there would be very little db gain.

I'm working from the standard DVD 5.1 surround settings which supplies stereo surround channels, a dedicated centre dialogue, a dedicated low frequency effects channel and stereo front left and right channels.

The dedicated LFE channel is mono, so you wont be doubling up when connecting to a sub with a two channel input.


In general, Domestic speakers all have inbuilt crossovers that cant be by-passed (unless they are Linn Isobarik that can use active crossovers).

Most domestic speakers will have a roll-off of around 50hz with domestic subs going up to 125hz - plenty of scope for tuning.

Very few (if any) processors have an inbuilt powered subwoofer output as the the class-D amplification generates alot of heat and draws alot of current.

My own set up has main speakers that have a good LFE roll-off at around 30Hz so I dont need a subwoofer. My processor is set up to bypass the sub out and send the LFE information to the left and right speakers.

Bizarrely, I have a sub at the rear for the rear channels, little Bose speakers and a BIG Bose sub behind the sofa for rear directed explosions (that reads so wrong).

In most home set-ups, a good floor stander is all thats needed, with subwoofers only required if you have A. Very small main speakers, B. Your own large cinema room.

The AX1 is a little old but as Yamaha pioneered accessible home cinema, it should have good bass management.


And now you've made my tea grow cold...

 

[djoptix]

What you said. And like I said, I didn't read the OP very carefully. My usual listening system is about 5 kilowatts

 

[legrandefromage]

What you said. And like I said, I didn't read the OP very carefully. My usual listening system is about 5 kilowatts

The average house party barely draws between 5W and 20W from an amplifier in a 10ft x 20ft room.

Its all in the power supply.

 

[djoptix]

Indeed... and despite what people say a separate ring main is essential because the pesky lampies have gear that creates noise.

Lampies aren't usually a problem in the home but you have to be firm with them on a gig.

 

[magicmistertea]

Cool! I used to be a speaker technician for wharfedale and quad and technical guru at tag malaren audio - i've forgotten loads though

yea me too !! i have forgotten so much !! It was almost 10 years ago when i was really in to it.. I was taught by an ex SSL engineer and a really good acoustic analyst, I tested a few local studios and the hall for cornwall etc for acoustic properties and also used to help a local firm out with P.A systems - setting up amps / mics / compressers/ desk work etc etc..... Good fun but there wasnt enough money in it .. so i returned to my previous job as a mason which suits me a lot better...

 

[legrandefromage]

I built the prototype, many many moons ago:

http://www.quad-hifi.co.uk/model.php?se ... model_id=2

and a dinky two panel version which would have made a great speaker if it was combined with a sub

 

[magicmistertea]

I built the prototype, many many moons ago:

http://www.quad-hifi.co.uk/model.php?se ... model_id=2

and a dinky two panel version which would have made a great speaker if it was combined with a sub

They look nice !! but yer i can see why you would need to add a sub ... and im saying that without even hearing them
The thing is with hi fi talk is that it is very complicated.. but i think for the average person you dont need to analyse it that much... basically use quality speakers/ amp/cables and you cant go too far wrong !! If you think it sounds good in your living room then job done !!

 

[Stick Legs]

I know sweet FA in this company. But I had a very strange effect on my home system...

Yamaha BlahBlah CD player
Rotel RA931Mk3 Amp
B&W DM 601S2 speakers

Chord Silver Screen cable.

Using the cable cut to lengths to reach my speakers there was NO bass from the right hand speaker. It turned out after lots of hunting that the cable on the right side was exactly 1/2 the length of that on the other. Local HiFi shop (LHS??) said this caused an 'effect' and by trimming the longer one, so the difference was not exactly 1/2 then the 'effect' disappeared.

2 Lessons, 1) when something is reccomended by a HiFi buff listen, they are probably right. 2) Reminding my of why I hate electrics, you can't see what is happening or why. Leave it to thems what knows!!

 

[stewlewis]

Are you sure one wasn't wired out of phase, you trimmed it and connected it back right?

Would an exact half length throw the phase out.