Help! Real poblems removing adjustable cup
- Thread starter mat*46*
- Start date
B/B Cup
if you are not painting the frame then try this.
get a hot air gun and warm up the cup from the centre so the heat will transfer outwards. The cup will expand and and expand the bottom bracket casing by a few thou, as it cools down use plus gas/WD40 between the cup and the b/bracket.
if painting then use the hot air gun/welding plant on the outside of the bottom bracket, the outside will expand away from the cup, again fill with the solution,
to make a tool, get a length of screwed rod that will fit onto the cups, needs to be 2 inches wider than the b/bracket. at one end fit 2 plain nuts and weld them to the rod so both are fixed.
at the other end put on a nut and turn it on so that when it is inside of the seized cup both of the nuts at the other end are clear of the b/bracket on the other side. Remove the tool and weld the nut onto the rod, put it back into the cup and but a washer and nut on and tighten it up solid. Warm the cup again and then using the end with the 2 welded nut on undo the cup which will be clockwise on the fixed cup size.
had this tool for 20 plus years and it has removed loads of cups both fixed and adjustable.
if you are not painting the frame then try this.
get a hot air gun and warm up the cup from the centre so the heat will transfer outwards. The cup will expand and and expand the bottom bracket casing by a few thou, as it cools down use plus gas/WD40 between the cup and the b/bracket.
if painting then use the hot air gun/welding plant on the outside of the bottom bracket, the outside will expand away from the cup, again fill with the solution,
to make a tool, get a length of screwed rod that will fit onto the cups, needs to be 2 inches wider than the b/bracket. at one end fit 2 plain nuts and weld them to the rod so both are fixed.
at the other end put on a nut and turn it on so that when it is inside of the seized cup both of the nuts at the other end are clear of the b/bracket on the other side. Remove the tool and weld the nut onto the rod, put it back into the cup and but a washer and nut on and tighten it up solid. Warm the cup again and then using the end with the 2 welded nut on undo the cup which will be clockwise on the fixed cup size.
had this tool for 20 plus years and it has removed loads of cups both fixed and adjustable.
Did this once with a steel BB cup seized into a Cannondale alloy MTB frame - cut some slots in the cup with a tungsten-carbide hacksaw blade and smashed it out with a cold chisel. In hindsight, getting someone to weld a chunk of steel to the cup and gripping it in a big bench vice and using the frame as a lever would have been easier. Had blisters on blisters trying to cut through that cup! Every bike since I've removed the BB to apply anti-seize to the threads.
Don't bother trying to cut the cup out ,you could easily damage the frame,it's a long and frustrating job that will test your sanity 
.
If there is enough of the cup sticking out,you could try jamming the cup in a vice and turning the frame anti clockwise.
Or you could try the 100% always works method.Get someone to weld a steel bar onto the cup,than give the bar a mighty push, never fails.
Once the cup is removed, it's a good idea to take the frame down to a bike shop that has a decent workshop,and get them to clear the B/bkt threads out with a tap
.If there is enough of the cup sticking out,you could try jamming the cup in a vice and turning the frame anti clockwise.
Or you could try the 100% always works method.Get someone to weld a steel bar onto the cup,than give the bar a mighty push, never fails.
Once the cup is removed, it's a good idea to take the frame down to a bike shop that has a decent workshop,and get them to clear the B/bkt threads out with a tap
Success!! Thanks to those who have posted.
Yesterday I installed the thickest bolt possible (M16) and tighted it up so tight the ratchet on my socket slipped when under massive pressure.
Today I had another thought and attacked the bolt with some stillys and a 3ft pole. Full body weight on it and it moved!!! Was proper rusted in.
So if any one is having massive problems then an m16 bolt is the way forward. Nothing from the local di shop was big enough so ebay job.
Yesterday I installed the thickest bolt possible (M16) and tighted it up so tight the ratchet on my socket slipped when under massive pressure.
Today I had another thought and attacked the bolt with some stillys and a 3ft pole. Full body weight on it and it moved!!! Was proper rusted in.
So if any one is having massive problems then an m16 bolt is the way forward. Nothing from the local di shop was big enough so ebay job.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
This is a tip from engine building and snapped head studs etc. It might help, it might not. It takes some patience and it's a bit like karate kid wax on wax off, but bear with me.
Sit the frame on something sturdy so that the BB housing has something substantial behind it. Take a hammer and repeatedly tap the shell. Don't whack it, just tap away at it for about ten minutes. What you're aiming to do is crack the corrosion that's holding it in place and by keep tap tap tapping away at it you're working at it but not hitting it so hard that you deform or damage the threads. Eventually it should break free and you'll be able to unwind it.
Otherwise, weld a length of bar (or a large old socket) onto it. The heat will break it free and the bar will give you some bonus purchase.
Sit the frame on something sturdy so that the BB housing has something substantial behind it. Take a hammer and repeatedly tap the shell. Don't whack it, just tap away at it for about ten minutes. What you're aiming to do is crack the corrosion that's holding it in place and by keep tap tap tapping away at it you're working at it but not hitting it so hard that you deform or damage the threads. Eventually it should break free and you'll be able to unwind it.
Otherwise, weld a length of bar (or a large old socket) onto it. The heat will break it free and the bar will give you some bonus purchase.
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