GT RTS

Factory Jackson

Retro Guru
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Another new project on the go now.

Picked up this 1994 (as far as I can work out) GT RTS 2 in a 14.5" from SavagePower. Cheers Ben :D

This is it as collected.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr
Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr
Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

Planned Spec is going to be something like this:

Frame: 14.5" GT RTS 2
Currently has a steel rear end that is need of a lot of TLC. I'm planning on sourcing an aluminum rear end if anyone has a spare?
Decals also to get sorted, hopefully via Gil

Fork: Rock Shox Judy DH (been fully rebuilt)

Headset: Hope or Cane Creek
Stem: Azonic Shorty
Handlebar: Azonic Pyramid Double Wall
Grips: Ritchey WCS

Brakes: XTR M900
Brake Pads: XTR M900
Brake Cables: Shimano Dura Ace
Brake Levers: XTR M900
Bar Ends: NO

Shifters: Shimano XTR M900
Front Derailleur: XTR M900
Rear Derailleur: XTR M900
Derailleur Cables: Shimano Dura Ace
Cassette: Shimano XT 8spd
Chain: Shimano
Cranks: XTR M900
Crank Bolts: XTR M000
Chainrings: XTR M900
Chainring bolts: XTR M900
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Pedals: Crank Bros Candy

Hub Skewers: Don't know yet
Rims: Mavic 521 CD
Hubs: Ringle (got the front, need to source a rear)
Nipples: DT Swiss brass
Spokes: DT Swiss Double butted
Tyres: Panaracer amberwall Smoke and Dart re-issue
Tubes: Probably

Saddle: Selle Italia Flite re-issue
Seatpost: Not sure yet
Seatpost Binder: GT

Here's a few bits I have already:
Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

I'll be selling off the original parts after refurbishing them to fund the build.

Currently has an interesting build ie 9sp shifters with an 8sp cassette using a 10sp chain !!

More to follow

cheers
Chris
 

Factory Jackson

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Benmac

Old School Hero
Quick work there! With the small size it'll look awesomely period with a decent length stem and seatpost!

Spec sounds very nice, a bit more correct than mine but I'm saving my M900 for something else!

For reference if you want to change them (easy enough to do and cheap) the rocker bearings are 6082RS and the rod end is M8 bore and thread with a right hand thread.

Gil definitely has all the decals by the way.
 

Minifreak

Old School Grand Master
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Sweet little RTS and I can't knock the spec you have planned. I'm very happy with mine and toyed with the idea of Judy's but wadsy lengthened the travel of and refurbed some Mag 21's for me. They work great with the rear. Looking forward to updates :)
 

Factory Jackson

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Benmac":43drsdi2 said:
Quick work there! With the small size it'll look awesomely period with a decent length stem and seatpost!

Spec sounds very nice, a bit more correct than mine but I'm saving my M900 for something else!

For reference if you want to change them (easy enough to do and cheap) the rocker bearings are 6082RS and the rod end is M8 bore and thread with a right hand thread.

Gil definitely has all the decals by the way.


Thanks for the info.

Yes, the bearings are goosed and so is the rod end.

Something like this for the rod end?
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/produc ... 0wodr74Dfw

The bearings in the rocker I have are 608RU. Will look further into that. It may have been different on the RTS 2's to the 1's and Teams.

Good news on the decals, i'll contact Gil.

cheers
Chris
 

Benmac

Old School Hero
Re:

That's the one! Luckily for me that place is only 5 miles away so I can pop there for emergencies!

On the bearings the actual size is just 608. The other numbers are the type of sealing. 2RS is rubber sealed both sides. Other codes will be completely open, rubber sealed one side only, metal sealed etc. The 2RS is probably the best for where they sit in the bike. My RTS 2 has the same rocket as yours and the 2RS ones fit nicely in it. In road hubs having them open on the inside face makes sense to cut down on drag but for an mtb and where the hardly move I'd go for fully sealed up.

On my 2 with the same rocker there was space to whack them out with a drift but they're in tight so maybe soak in penetrating oil for a while first. There's a spacer between the two bearings to help support the bolt. It should have enough okay to get the drift or screwdriver in. Takes an age to get it started but once moving it gets easier with each tap.

My "1" there's no space to get a drift in so I am getting a proper extractor.
 

Factory Jackson

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Re: Re:

Benmac":210ptuep said:
That's the one! Luckily for me that place is only 5 miles away so I can pop there for emergencies!

On the bearings the actual size is just 608. The other numbers are the type of sealing. 2RS is rubber sealed both sides. Other codes will be completely open, rubber sealed one side only, metal sealed etc. The 2RS is probably the best for where they sit in the bike. My RTS 2 has the same rocket as yours and the 2RS ones fit nicely in it. In road hubs having them open on the inside face makes sense to cut down on drag but for an mtb and where the hardly move I'd go for fully sealed up.

On my 2 with the same rocker there was space to whack them out with a drift but they're in tight so maybe soak in penetrating oil for a while first. There's a spacer between the two bearings to help support the bolt. It should have enough okay to get the drift or screwdriver in. Takes an age to get it started but once moving it gets easier with each tap.

My "1" there's no space to get a drift in so I am getting a proper extractor.

Spot on.
I've just checked in my workshop and have some 608 2RS's. Also got a blind bearing puller, so should be an easy job.

You might be able to help too; seatpost size. I've measures and it's a 26.6 post. Know of anyone that makes a decent post? Obviously Thomson, but anything a little more retro?

cheers
Chris
 

Benmac

Old School Hero
Re:

Nice one, you're sorted then, hope my puller arrives quickly. The bearings in mine are ok but the new ones in my 2 move so much better.

On the post there is some debate whether they're 26.8 or 27.0. I'm using a USE one and bought a new shim. I think i bought a 26.8 one but can check in the morning. It fits really nicely. Holds the post so it doesn't move if just left but slides in easily if pushed. Nipping the clamp up doesn't take much to get it right.

GT used Kore stuff on their later bikes, might be an option. Either that or syncros always looks neat and period.
 
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